AAFA files legal complaint over California textile recycling scheme rollout

The American Apparel & Footwear Association (AAFA) has filed a legal complaint challenging the implementation of California’s Responsible Textile Recovery Act of 2024, marking a significant development in the rollout of the US’s first extended producer responsibility (EPR) scheme for textiles.

The complaint targets regulator CalRecycle, arguing that its initial designation of a Producer Responsibility Organisation (PRO) does not meet the statutory requirements set out under SB 707.

The act itself intends to establish a framework requiring producers to take responsibility for the collection, reuse, repair and recycling of textile products at end of life. A central element of the system is the PRO, an industry-led body responsible for coordinating compliance and infrastructure development.

Earlier this year, CalRecycle appointed Landbell USA as the leading body for the act, tasking the organisation with overseeing the management and stewardship of regulated textile products in California. Landbell is thus responsible for developing a Producer Responsibility Plan, while CalRecycle will oversee annual progress reports submitted by the nonprofit.

According to AAFA, however, the selected PRO fails to meet key criteria outlined in the legislation, including being producer-formed, having a representative board, operating as a non-profit, and maintaining robust financial controls.

In a statement on LinkedIn, Stephen Lamar, president and CEO of AAFA, said the organisation had worked closely with stakeholders and legislators to shape the law into a “strong and productive” framework for textile circularity, but had “no recourse” but to challenge the decision. He added that the complaint is intended to be narrow and resolved quickly to avoid delays in implementation.

AAFA emphasised that the design of the PRO will play a critical role in directing investment into recycling infrastructure and enabling producers to meet regulatory obligations, as well as supporting product redesign for circularity.