There are countless sustainability initiatives, but who in the fashion industry is truly driving the transition—whether or not their efforts are visible to the broader public? We interview changemakers, consultants, sustainable fashion experts and activists. What can we learn from their work?

In this third installment, FashionUnited speaks with Saqib Sohail, who leads Responsible Business Projects at Artistic Milliners, a vertically integrated denim manufacturer based in Karachi, Pakistan, producing premium denim for brands like Jack & Jones, Gap, Lee and G-Star. The company is renowned for its commitment to sustainability and innovation across the cotton supply chain. Its initiatives span from climate action and responsible production to workforce development and social programs focused on inclusion, diversity and training.

Fashioning Change – Part 3: Saqib Sohail of Artistic Milliners on True Supply Chain Collaboration

1. Could you briefly introduce yourself first? Who are you and what do you do? Can you share some key achievements?

My name is Saqib Sohail, I lead the Responsible Business team at Artistic Milliners. My background is in textile science and management. I’ve spent over 15 years between teaching at universities and working in fashion, now finding real, practical solutions for sustainability in the latter.

At Artistic Milliners, we’re not taking a step-by-step approach. We’re working on all levels of the supply chain at the same time: from cotton farms (Tier 5) to ginners, to chemical and dye suppliers. We're addressing the land, water, and air impacts simultaneously.

On the land side we’re not only preserving groundwater at our facilities through initiatives like water conservation and rainwater harvesting. We are striving to ensure that waste to landfill is reduced as much as possible, both from our factories and from our products once they reach consuming countries. And even if they do, we aim to design them in a way that allows for environmental absorption. Of course, there’s still a long way to go, but we’re actively exploring fibers that are better for the environment. Our commitment doesn’t stop at the factory level — we’re also going upstream to the farms to push these changes further.

Take some of our farm-level efforts: we launched the Milliner Cotton Initiative in 2020 to tackle cotton contamination, increase accountability and traceability, now directly supporting over 5,000 farmers. We’ve introduced smart farming tools like drone spraying, soil sensors, and satellite imaging to lower input costs and chemical use. And one of our latest initiatives is AM Regen through the standard of RegenAgri, a regenerative agriculture program, focusing on soil health, biodiversity, and animal and social welfare. It grew quickly from 92 farmers at the start in 2023, to 1,000 farmers, spanning 10,000 acres, today.

2. Where does the fashion industry currently stand on sustainability? And how is your outlook on that?

People are more aware than ever of environmental issues and the fashion industry’s role in pollution. That’s the encouraging part. The challenge, however, is that the biggest barrier to real progress is still cost. Take initiatives like Artistic Milliners’ use of organic cotton and their Alliance for Water Stewardship certifications: these alone can cost up to 250,000 dollars a year, just for certification and inputs. That adds about 15 to 20 cents per product. And that’s where things often stall, because most consumers simply aren’t willing to pay more to clean the industry up.

On another front, in today’s highly competitive fashion market, some companies make false claims about using organic materials and selling them for cheaper prices (because price remains a primary purchasing lever, ed.). That undermines the work of companies truly committed to sustainability.

Also the issues in the fashion supply chain are deeply rooted and expensive to fix, and that can feel disheartening at times, especially with added external pressures rising from ongoing geopolitical events.

Still, I choose to stay optimistic. My glass is always half full. It has to be. So, acknowledge the problems, but stay resilient in the face of them. A hopeful perspective keeps us moving forward and driving change.

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3. What's your food for thought/key message to our reader when it comes to sustainability?

In the fashion industry, sustainability is often seen through the lens of decarbonization, things like switching to renewable energy, improving factory efficiency or recycling. And while that’s important, it’s only part of the story. Too often, critical issues like water use and the sourcing of sustainable raw materials are overlooked. So too are the people and processes at the very beginning of the supply chain: the farmers, ginners, and logistics workers.

At Artistic Milliners, we ask brands to involve us early in decision-making and we urge lawmakers not to create new regulations without consulting the full supply chain. That same principle of inclusion must apply to everyone, especially the upstream players. Their voices matter.

Real change starts with true co-creation. Too often sustainability plans are made at the top and passed down, but what works for a brand might not work for a farm, and vice versa. That’s why it’s so important to define the problems together first, before jumping to ideas. Solutions are stronger when they’re built together. Those facing the challenges firsthand often have the most effective, grounded ideas.

Fashion companies must realize that every sustainability decision -or lack thereof - affects far more than their own operations.

4. To move things forward: what do you advise?

To move things forward, it helps to collaborate with innovative organizations and universities. They bring fresh ideas and technologies that support the reduction of energy, water, and raw material use. Often, small improvements in areas like heat recovery or waste reduction are overlooked — yet they can lead to big, measurable gains. It’s a practical and scalable way to accelerate sustainability progress.

ESG should also be a shared responsibility across the business. It can’t sit in a silo. Finance, marketing, product, and operations all need to be part of the journey. That means sharing data across departments, and ensuring sustainability teams understand the business, just as much as the business understands sustainability.

Another key factor is investing in people. Upskilling teams and aligning ESG goals with individual roles helps employees understand their contribution. When people see their own impact, they’re more likely to take ownership, rather than just follow instructions.

And progress doesn’t have to be dramatic to be effective. As the book Atomic Habits reminds us, making small, consistent improvements, even just 1 percent better each day, can lead to far greater impact over time. In sustainability too, it’s the steady, repeated steps that bring lasting change.

Related reads:

• Who makes our clothes? Fashion production and the supply chain explained
• Changemakers in fashion (part 1): Thami Schweichler van United Repair Centre
• Changemakers in fashion (part 2): Romain Narcy of Rematters, Ereks Blue Matters and the Denim Deal
• What exactly does “regenerative” mean in fashion?
• “Sustainable Materials”: what are next-gen materials, biobased materials and recycled materials? When is a material truly recycled?
• How to comply with the CSRD? Frontrunner Schijvens Corporate Fashion shares the tips for SME companies
• Jeans and denim: everything you need to know about jeans
• Where is the system change in the fashion industry?
• The transition to a circular economy: Is less more in the future of fashion?
• Repair is increasingly gaining attention - also in the fashion sector - What if we can wear our favorite clothes for longer?
• Where is the system change in the fashion industry?
• The transition to a circular economy: Is less more in the future of fashion?
• For a circular economy and fashion industry, behavioural change is key

Next month, a new Changemakers interview will be published. If you have a recommendation for a strong candidate to consider for this series, please don’t hesitate to reach out to us at info@fashionunited.com.

Sources:
- An interview with Saqib Sohail conducted on 19 May 2025.
- AI tools assisted with transcription and writing.