Fashion Reboot IFM 2025: French fashion seeks balance amid Chinese pressure and market disconnect

Fashion Reboot IFM 2025 highlights the major upheavals French fashion players are experiencing. These include a shifting political and economic landscape; pressure from Chinese industrial platforms, epitomised by Shein; and drastic changes in consumer habits.

These were the key takeaways from the Fashion Reboot 2025, hosted by the Institut Français de la Mode (IFM) on Thursday, November 27, 2025. The event was intended to be positive, according to its general director, Xavier Romatet. He stated, “We are going through a complex, dangerous, and exciting period because the players in fashion are being completely redefined”.

In other words, the fashion ecosystem must evolve because the paradigms have shifted. Each presentation at this Fashion Reboot 2025 proved this point. The topics discussed did not exactly spark a glimmer of hope. The exception was the closing presence of Élisabeth Cunin, president of Kiabi. She shared the values the French brand relies on to stand out (interview to follow).

When China awakens, western fashion trembles

“What dominates is chaos,” introduced Lucas Delattre, the event's host and a professor at the IFM. He illustrated his point with an image from the apocalyptic film Mad Max on the big screen.

Alain Frachon of Le Monde outlined this chaos: “There are fewer and fewer rules between countries, a dispersal of power previously held by the US, and an industrial, even military, superpower in China”.

“To summarise,” stated Denis Ferrand of Rexecode, “the Americans want to pick our pockets and China wants to take us down. Nevertheless, despite the crises, global economic growth continues, thanks in particular to investment bubbles around artificial intelligence, which is redefining industrial balances.”

China is widening the gap with its ability to offer industrial products compatible with European decarbonisation targets. Its exports are also growing thanks to export prices remaining the same as in 2019.

Conversely, France is experiencing an ageing population that reduces its attractiveness. The country is also suffering from a brain drain and is lagging in AI training. This led Ferrand to say: “We must impose on the Chinese what they have imposed on us: produce in France with a 50/50 logic.”

Streetwear: French fashion's forgotten element?

Another flaw in the system was highlighted by Léo Dentant, founder of the brand Henny and a graduate of the IFM Incubator. He pointed to the isolation, economic constraints, and lack of funding for streetwear brand creators. Yet, “since clothing represents a culture—in this case, hip-hop, rap, or trap—streetwear is the uniform of the new generation”.

He cited several success factors: the youth of the creators, who speak the same language as their community; committed cultural collaborations that promote inclusivity (racial, social, etc.); innovative and experiential concepts that renew how fashion is consumed; and a willingness to collaborate with influencers of their own generation.

The example of Henny demonstrates the potential of streetwear, as the brand has raised funds from Bpifrance.

Department stores or the disconnect with new consumer habits

Department stores are not immune to this disconnect between new consumer habits and their business model. Selvane Mohandas du Ménil of the International Association of Department Stores (IADS) demonstrated this with a factual argument.

Artificial intelligence is accelerating this transformation. Over fifty million purchase-related queries are processed by AI, forcing retailers to shift from SEO (search engine optimisation) to GIO (generative AI optimisation). They must now be visible not only to consumers but also to bots.

This algorithmic transition corresponds to a generational shift. However, “Generation Y has seven times less wealth than a baby boomer”. A choice must therefore be made: either learn to speak to young people or be able to editorialise the offering to meet the specific needs of seniors. Galeries Lafayette did this in a collaboration with French writer, fashion critic, and influencer Sophie Fontanel, and Le Bon Marché with French presenter and actor Antoine de Caunes.

Furthermore, “we have moved from an economy of use rather than possession, for which the price battle is lost in advance,” explained the director. “Shein is a striking example of an extremely efficient industrial platform that department stores cannot replicate. This ultra-fast fashion brand is just the first in a logical sequence. What comes after Shein?”

Decline in growth and the unabashed rise of ultra-fast fashion brands

Gildas Minvielle, director of the IFM's Economic Observatory, quantified the poor results recorded by the fashion sector from January to September 2025:

• An average evolution in sales volume of -1.6 percent

• 53 percent of retail brands noted a decline in footfall

• Prices increased by 1.5 percent

• 18-24 year-olds are accelerating the transition to digital and second-hand fashion (online sales are 10 percent higher than in 2019).

The worst part for the French fashion ecosystem, which is strongly opposed to ultra-fast fashion, is that Shein and Temu are standing out and increasing competitive pressure.

• In value, ultra-fast fashion and second-hand fashion represent 13 percent of the French apparel market

• In volume, the trio of Shein, Temu, and AliExpress accounts for 6 percent of apparel purchases.

• 38 percent of consumers have bought apparel on the Shein, Temu, and AliExpress platforms

• 56 percent of women aged 16 to 24 are consumers of ultra-fast fashion.

The most frequently cited strengths of ultra-fast fashion brands are low prices, but that is not all. Those surveyed by the IFM also mentioned product diversity and the availability of a wide range of sizes.

As a result, apparel and textile consumption is expected to decline by 1 percent in value in 2025. Note that FashionUnited will have the opportunity to revisit this presentation in more detail.

Fashion's value system is disconnected, but not without solutions

This attraction to low prices was analysed by ObSoCo (the Society and Consumption Observatory). Agnès Crozet and Boris Descarrega noted the impoverishment of the French population: “the incomes of the ultra-rich have increased by 119 percent, while other social classes have seen a 24 percent increase”.

They also pointed to the rise in fixed expenses (housing, energy) and a shift in fashion purchases towards other types of consumption, such as a Netflix subscription.

To this, the experts add that fashion item prices seem disconnected from reality and are now structured around intangible values. Additionally, seniors, who hold the purchasing power as previously explained, are buying fewer clothes. This was enough to definitively dampen the mood.

Fortunately, a few testimonies helped to revive hope. These included an analysis of the 'core' aesthetics of micro-trends, which indicate a preference for stylish looks; the use of AI by Laurent Milchior of Etam; and the enthusiasm for fashion shows and museum exhibitions dedicated to fashion. This last point, commented on by Emilie Hammen of Musée Galliera, proves that fashion continues to hold a strong fascination and has the potential to bounce back.

This is also conditional on European eco-responsibility regulations being simplified, according to Dominique Jacomet of Euratex. He suggested substituting the philosophy of standards with a clearer philosophy of directives to be more easily understood and put into perspective with consumer expectations.

Conclusion: make fashion, not war. Creativity, investments in cutting-edge technology, cultural desire, and brand values are living proof that fashion can still reinvent itself. For that, see you in 2026 for the next Fashion Reboot.

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