Global fashion organisations call for Saks Global to support emerging talent

A coalition of leading fashion bodies is calling for safeguards to protect emerging designers amid Saks Global’s ongoing restructuring.

In a joint letter obtained by WWD, the Council of Fashion Designers of America (CFDA), British Fashion Council (BFC), Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana (CNMI) and Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode (FHCM) have urged CEO Geoffroy van Raemdonck to ensure “fair and responsible” treatment of young brands as outstanding payments are addressed.

The concern centres on reports that some independent designers may not be paid for goods already delivered. The organisations warned that such losses could be substantial: “For many of these businesses, losing payment for fulfilled orders is not just a financial setback but a direct threat to their ability to keep operating.”

The letter intends to highlight a structural imbalance in the industry. Independent labels lack the financial means of large luxury groups, making delayed or reduced payments particularly damaging to cash flow, production cycles and payroll.

In addition, the group noted that emerging brands are key to innovation and long-term industry growth, adding that “the sustainability of fashion relies on a system” where smaller players can scale without excessive financial risk.

“The ongoing strength of our industry relies on supporting the next generation of designers. Ensuring fair treatment now would send a strong message about Saks Global’s dedication to the creative community that fashion ultimately depends on,” the letter concluded.

In a statement to WWD, Geoffroy van Raemdonck, CEO of Saks Global, which currently operates under Chapter 11 proceedings, responded that pre-petition payments are legally constrained and will be handled through court proceedings, while post-petition obligations are being met in the ordinary course.

He added that the company is “rebuilding trust” with vendors and highlighted resumed shipments from nearly 600 brands, alongside 1.4 billion dollars in retail receipts.

Saks has further deemed select independent labels as “critical vendors,” though not all have received that status. One vendor cited partial repayments of around 20 percent of outstanding balances while continuing business with Saks, which has committed to moving forward with the vendor.