Italy gears up to fight fast fashion

Milan, Italy - The Italian fashion industry is looking to defend itself against Shein. The platform recently challenged the industry on its home turf in Milan with a chic collection and an army of influencers.

"Hundreds of thousands of parcels arrive at our homes every day. We must react," Luca Sburlati, president of the fashion employers' federation Confindustria Moda, warned AFP.

"This invasion of low-cost foreign products damages our own products and endangers consumers," thundered Adolfo Urso, the minister for 'Made in Italy', in mid-October following a meeting with the sector.

The Italian fashion industry is particularly up in arms against Shein, a Singapore-based platform regularly accused of environmental pollution and poor working conditions.

In France, the government declared war on Shein in early November. It accused the platform of selling banned products, such as sex dolls resembling children.

This did not stop nearly 8,000 people from queuing in Paris on Wednesday for the opening of the platform's first permanent store in the world.

Influencers

In Italy, where fashion represents a significant part of the economy at 5 percent of GDP, Shein has become ubiquitous on the streets and in wardrobes.

The platform even adorned itself with sequins in Milan for its first Italian fashion show, held shortly after the official fashion week in October.

Dozens of influencers were invited and dressed by Shein's various brands to present pieces from its autumn/winter collection. The collection claimed Italian influences, featuring faux black lace, three-piece suits and long faux furs.

"The idea was to show that everyone can find their style at Shein and to respond to our critics," Luca Raveillon, the show's artistic director, told AFP.

"Look, it's beautiful... it fits well, we look great in it, and we can express ourselves with what we wear," the French designer emphasised, noting that "life is getting expensive".

Shein "watches what's happening on the street," commented influencer Alessia Tresoldi, 27, from Bergamo in northern Italy.

Sitting in the front row for the show in a long red chiffon gown, Tresoldi has been collaborating with the platform for ten years. She shared snippets of the collection with her one million followers on Instagram. Regarding the quality of the clothes, she assured, "I have always shown what it is."

"It's sometimes frowned upon," concedes model Clizia Somma, 28, who was a customer before collaborating with Shein. "Followers tell me that I support precarious work."

Measures

At a European level, the industry is calling for an end to the customs duty exemption for parcels under 150 euros in order to stem the tide.

The Italian government has promised urgent measures, including a proposal to certify the most ethical brands.

On Wednesday, it began by transposing a European directive that strengthens transparency requirements for sellers, particularly concerning the environmental impact of products. Shein has already been penalised on this point in both Italy and France.

The Italian industry is eagerly awaiting more radical measures. It is due to present its 2035 strategic plan on November 11.

It is particularly keen to draw inspiration from a French bill that proposes financial penalties and a total ban on advertising for ultra-fast fashion.

Prices

At the Milan show, Mattia Trebino, 24, wearing a faux crocodile jacket, estimates he receives about one Shein parcel per week. "You can wear these clothes once or twice at most, but they are really cheap."

The site offers one of the 100 percent polyester fur coats from the show, available in 15 colours, from 28 euros with free delivery.

With these prices, European consumers are buying 60 percent more clothing than in 2000 and keeping items for half as long. This is according to a study by the firm The European House Ambrosetti, presented at the end of October.

According to its author, Carlo Cici, the European fashion industry must innovate more to differentiate itself. "The consumer is very interested in product sustainability, but is not prepared to pay for it," he summarises in the study.

This article was translated to English using an AI tool.

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