French report outlines plan to tax fast fashion and boost local production
On Wednesday, Clément Beaune, France's High Commissioner for Strategy and Planning, unveiled a strategic study designed to combat the "massive influx" of fast fashion. The report advocates for a tripartite approach: revitalizing French manufacturing, scaling textile recycling, and imposing heavy taxes on low-cost imports.
Ahead of the full report’s release this Friday—titled “Fast fashion: a misleading remedy for the purchasing power problem”—Beaune appeared on RMC’s morning show to challenge the logic of "cheap" clothing. He argued that, despite the low sticker price, it is ultimately more economical to buy sustainably.
“If you wear durable 'Made in France' jeans produced under ethical conditions, they will remain intact after a year of daily wear,” Beaune observed. “In contrast, a pair bought from a major platform will likely be destroyed.”
To support this, he cited "cost per wear" statistics to highlight the hidden expense of disposable fashion. According to the study, a dress from an ultra-fast fashion retailer is worn four times less than a quality equivalent; a coat is worn eight times less, and jeans seven times less.
Defending industry and ecology
Beyond consumer habits, the High Commissioner emphasized the need to protect the domestic economy from further decline. He proposed encouraging the "second-hand and repair sector" through a reduced VAT and suggested a "substantial tax" on ultra-fast fashion imports entering the EU.
“We must halt the surge from these platforms,” Beaune insisted. “We cannot afford to relive the deindustrialization of 25 years ago—a chic term for the period when we closed factories across France and Europe. There is still time to save our brands and our jobs.”
While acknowledging the tension between environmental policy and immediate purchasing power, Beaune argued that leadership requires a long-term perspective. To bridge this gap, the study proposes the introduction of an “eco-voucher,” modeled after a successful Belgian system.
“It functions similarly to a holiday voucher,” Beaune explained. “Companies could voluntarily provide supplementary income in the form of a voucher specifically for sustainable clothing produced in France or Europe. For the employer, this would be an attractive benefit, as it would carry no social charges or contributions.”
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