United Repair Academy: 'Fashion brands are no longer asking why, but how'

On September 1, United Repair Centre opened its Academy at Krelis Louwenstraat 3 in Amsterdam-West during Amsterdam Fashion Week, in collaboration with Levi’s. The event aimed to showcase the students' work and introduce visitors to clothing repair and its associated craftsmanship. Founded in 2022 by Thami Schweichler and Paul Kerssens as a continuation of his earlier initiative, Makers Unite, the academy now has repair hubs in Amsterdam, London and Paris. Inside, work is well underway. More than 50 repair tailors are busy repairing clothes daily, while students are trained to become the next generation of repair specialists.

Ton Stevens, service and operational excellence manager at United Repair Centre, was explaining the garment repair process to visitors during a tour when a loud bell suddenly rang. The students' coffee break was over. It was a small moment, but it perfectly illustrated how the academy and the repair centre are intertwined. While garments are registered, repaired and inspected, new professionals are being trained elsewhere.

“We are heading for a ‘perfect storm’ in the field of repairs,” said Schweichler. He believes this is creating a generation gap in the profession. “There is a serious shortage of skilled, technically proficient tailors throughout Europe.”

Repairing is not production

The founder believes the problem lies not only in the number of available tailors but also in the required skills. Repair work requires a different skillset than producing new clothing.

“Repair is much more complex than production,” explains Schweichler. Production involves making the same garments on a large scale. Repair, however, requires a different approach for each garment and every type of damage. A repair tailor must understand a garment's construction, sometimes taking it completely apart and reassembling it. Knowledge of different materials and machinery is also essential.

“Every repair is different and must be approached as a new puzzle,” says Schweichler. He believes it is this combination of technical knowledge, material expertise and precision that makes the work more intensive than many people realise.

From assistant to repair technician

The United Repair Academy aims to pass this knowledge on to a new generation. Students follow various modules that combine theory and practice. They work on their technical skills and also receive personal guidance.

The training programme is structured around several steps. Students learn about production preparation and can progress from repair assistant to repair technician. Upon completing the curriculum, they receive a certificate recognised by the ROC.

For the academy, it is not just about training people for a growing job market; social impact also plays a key role. People who have been long-term unemployed or are seeking more meaningful work, for example, are given the opportunity to develop technical skills. After the course, they are offered a job at United Repair Centre.

According to Michelle Lievaart, course leader at United Repair Academy, it is about more than just a job. Students learn to repair while simultaneously building self-confidence, dignity and a sense of community.

Repair as part of the revenue model

The question is how repair fits into the business model of fashion brands and retailers. According to Schweichler, there is no standard answer. Some companies charge customers for repairs, while others choose to offer the service for free.

United Repair Centre consistently finds that a good repair experience can strengthen the customer-brand relationship. This is true for the more than 35 brands it collaborates with, from Levi’s to Patagonia. Customers return and subsequently spend more, states Schweichler. The cost of an individual repair can therefore be seen as an investment in the long-term customer relationship.

He believes the biggest challenge for brands is not just the willingness to offer repairs. The necessary infrastructure can be a significant obstacle. “To offer repairs on a large scale, with an exceptionally high level of service, you need technology and infrastructure.”

United Repair Centre aims to lower this barrier with a digital platform and procedures that, according to Schweichler, can be adapted to different brands and their needs.

From Levi’s deadstock to new designs during Amsterdam Fashion Week

During Amsterdam Fashion Week, the story of repair gains an extra dimension through a collaboration with Levi’s. Twenty-eight pairs of Levi’s jeans and six Levi’s jackets were used for the collection presented at the event.

The old denim has been given a second life, transformed into three pairs of trousers; two jackets; six skirts; one dress; two tops; one bag; six headpieces; four necklaces and a pair of earrings.

This approach treats deadstock as more than just a waste or material issue. The students also use the denim to translate their own ideas, backgrounds and identities into new designs.

For United Repair Academy, this aligns with a broader vision of material use. The academy often receives deadstock from brand partners, allowing students to practise various repair techniques. Schweichler notes that very little waste remains, as new applications can ultimately be found for most materials.

Next step: repairing and designing differently

Schweichler sees the future of repair extending beyond simply mending and altering more garments. He believes it can ultimately influence how clothing is designed and produced.

Four years ago, United Repair Centre began with technical repairs for the outdoor sector. Demand is now growing from various parts of the fashion industry, including an increasing number of premium fashion brands. The repair centre collaborates with brands such as Patagonia, The North Face, Arc'teryx and Nike.

Schweichler views this development as a significant shift. Previously, brands would ask why they should offer repairs to their customers. Now, the question is increasingly shifting to how they can organise it.

In five years, Schweichler hopes for more than just a larger repair infrastructure. “Our hope for five years from now is that we will be able to bring about meaningful changes, not only in the repair phase but also in the way we design and how we eliminate waste from this industry.”

This aligns with the words of Amsterdam Fashion Week director Danie Bles, who described repair during the event as ‘the new luxury’. This is not because repair should become an exclusive or expensive service, but because it gives consumers the opportunity to keep clothes they value for longer. The focus is slowly shifting from simply selling new clothes to extending the lifespan of existing garments. Schweichler sees a growing role for the tailors he trains in this very area.

Press, family members, guests and students of the United Repair Academy were among those present at the event on September 1.