Articles by Don-Alvin Adegeest
How archival fashion fuels the resale boom
Luxury fashion has always had a symbiotic relationship with its past, drawing on archival designs to inform contemporary collections. However, the industry’s increasing reliance on nostalgia—often with little reinterpretation—has begun to reshape consumer behaviour in ways that may prove counterproductive. Every time a creative director is...
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Emerging British designers look to Paris for growth as London Show Rooms returns to PFW
The British Fashion Council (BFC) has confirmed the return of London Show Rooms to Paris Fashion Week, a crucial event for emerging British designers seeking to gain a foothold in the international market. Taking place from March 6 to March 11, 2025, at 2 Rue Saint-Sauveur, Paris, the showroom will feature eight of the BFC Foundation’s most...
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Why has Kurt Geiger changed hands so often?
Beloved in the UK, the last 15 years has seen footwear giant Kurt Geiger on a wild ride of ownership changes, reflecting the turbulent nature of the fashion industry and the challenges of growing a mid-luxury brand in a rapidly evolving retail landscape. The acquisition by Steve Madden in February 2025 marks yet another chapter for the UK-based...
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Fashion brands see renewed growth in China amid global recovery
Signs of recovery in China’s luxury market are becoming increasingly clear as fashion brands report encouraging results for 2024. Moncler, the Italian luxury outerwear giant, posted annual revenues of 2.7 billion euros, reflecting an 8 percent increase at constant currency compared to 2023. The Asia-Pacific region was a key driver of this...
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Phoebe Philo launched a logo t-shirt. Here’s why it matters
Phoebe Philo’s decision to introduce logo-emblazoned T-shirts at her namesake label signals an intriguing shift in the brand’s evolving strategy. Known for her minimalist aesthetic and aversion to overt branding during her tenure at Céline, Philo’s move toward logo-driven merchandise might seem surprising, especially for a brand that initially...
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U.S. tariff crackdown hits Chinese fast fashion giants
Chinese fast fashion giants Shein and Temu are facing declining sales in the U.S. following Donald Trump’s renewed tariff measures targeting Chinese imports. Sales have dropped 16 percent and 41 percent respectively since Trump’s inauguration, driven by the elimination of the “de minimis” trade rule, which previously exempted goods under 800...
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Yeezy faces backlash over offensive product as Shopify shutters online store
It has been a turbulent week for Yeezy founder Ye, formerly known as Kanye West, as controversy continues to swirl around his brand. The fallout began with the sudden departure of Gosha Rubchinskiy, a key collaborator and influential designer, who announced he was leaving Yeezy to revive his eponymous label. But the situation worsened...
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Saks Fifth Avenue’s acquisition of Neiman Marcus could be the future of U.S. luxury retail
Saks Fifth Avenue’s recent acquisition of Neiman Marcus marks a pivotal shift in America’s competitive landscape of luxury retail. The creation of Saks Global as the parent company of both brands has immediately elevated its market presence, positioning it as the second-largest player in the luxury department store space by visit share. While...
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Kering bets on Gucci revival despite lagging sales, as investors maintain optimism
Kering’s fourth-quarter results revealed a significant hit to profits, largely driven by sluggish sales at Gucci, its flagship brand. Yet, despite the challenging period, investor sentiment remains surprisingly upbeat. Shares in Kering rose following its financial reporting and abrupt departure of Gucci’s creative director Sabato De Sarno, who...
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Shein seeks Vietnam expansion to offset U.S. tariffs
Fast-fashion leader Shein is encouraging key Chinese suppliers to establish production facilities in Vietnam, offering temporary incentives such as higher procurement prices of up to 30 percent and larger order guarantees, according to a Bloomberg report. The move comes in response to recent U.S. trade policy changes, including the removal of...
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