There are countless sustainability initiatives, but who in the fashion industry is truly driving the transition, whether their efforts are visible to the public or not? We interview changemakers, consultants, sustainability experts and activists in fashion. What can we learn from their work?

In episode 6: Dr. ir. Natascha van der Velden, an independent researcher and consultant in sustainable fashion and textiles. As an expert, she regularly provides commentary on and interpretation of sustainable fashion in the media.

Doctor, industrial designer, ed.

Fashioning change – episode 7: Dr. Natascha van der Velden

1. Who are you and what is your background and area of expertise?

I am Natascha van der Velden, and I have been fascinated by textiles, clothing and fashion my entire life. I graduated from TU Delft in 1994 with a focus on sustainable textiles, making me one of the first to engage with this topic. It was truly pioneering work.

After graduating, I worked in the textile industry for 15 years. I then returned to TU Delft to conduct PhD research on how fashion designers can influence sustainability. I began to focus on calculating the impact of various materials and production methods using life cycle assessments (LCA). Since then, I have worked on research projects, advised companies, written articles and taught about sustainability and LCA in textiles.

2. What are you currently working on?

I work on projects that help companies quantitatively measure and improve sustainability. For instance, I am collaborating closely with a company that is establishing a system for on-demand production. This means clothing is only manufactured when there is a demand for it. This approach is in stark contrast to the conventional method in fashion, where products are first developed and produced before being presented to the consumer. Demand-driven production is a promising way to combat overproduction and the destruction of unsold clothing.

In addition, I focus on material research, such as the use of recycled fabrics and the processing of textile waste to further improve the sustainability of products.

3. How has sustainability developed since your PhD research (2016)? What progress has been made? Would you actually call it progress?

That last point is a good one. From the perspective of demand-driven production, it is difficult to understand why the vast majority of the industry still clings to mass production and the endless discounting of items that do not sell well.

On a positive note, sustainability is on everyone's radar. This applies to both fashion professionals and students. This awareness is crucial because if you are not aware of the issues, you cannot devise solutions.

On the negative side, the figures, such as the total environmental impact, are not yet decreasing substantially. This is mainly because production volumes are constantly increasing. Products can be made more sustainable. However, if the total quantity continues to grow, the impact remains high. Without strong incentives or clear regulations, this will not change quickly. Unfortunately, it is difficult to establish effective rules in a free-trade world. When legislation is pending, business lobbies often attempt to weaken it, as happened with the Corporate Sustainability Due Diligence Directive (CSDDD).

Achieving the 2030 climate targets, such as a 55 percent reduction in CO₂ emissions compared to 1990, is complex. The industry now produces so much more that even halving the emissions per product is insufficient. This is a cause for concern for me.

Fortunately, I also see hopeful developments. Many companies are investing in innovation, and beautiful combinations of technology and craftsmanship are emerging. It requires perseverance, however.

The textile industry is not alone in this; many industries are facing the same struggle.

4. What message or food for thought do you have for our readers?

Consumers are expected to make “the right choices,” yet it is perfectly understandable that they buy during sales or on Black Friday. After all, items are offered at low prices and purchasing them is not against the rules. I believe companies themselves must take more responsibility.

Fortunately, it is becoming increasingly crucial for organisations to have all product information. Ensure you have answers to questions such as: Where does my product come from? What materials does it contain? Who makes it? How and by whom is it used? And what can happen to it at the end of its life cycle (can it be reused or processed into new clothing)? This is important not only because of the upcoming Corporate Sustainability Reporting Directive (CSRD) reporting obligation and the digital product passport, but also because consumers simply expect it.

Companies that produce far away automatically have less oversight and control. This is often done to outsource labour, a significant cost, to low-wage countries. I strongly believe in a more local economy. The shorter and more manageable the supply chain, the more control you have. This can even lead to cost savings.

I always advise companies: “Do less, but better.” In other words, produce smarter. The tools to do so are available today. Digital systems make it possible to closely align material inventories, demand and production, as is the case with on-demand production.

Consider whole-garment knitting machines, for example, which can create a garment in a single piece. This saves a significant amount of manual labour, which is another way to shorten the supply chain and make local production more feasible.

5. How do you view the future of the fashion industry? Is your glass half full or half empty?

Fashion is a fascinating subject. Everyone has an opinion on it because it is so personal. This ensures that sustainability is, and will remain, on the agenda.

At the same time, I feel that something really must change. I have been waiting for a major shift for 30 years. Many initiatives, such as those in the field of circularity, are valuable. However, they are still quite small in scale compared to what is needed: systemic change.

6. What initiatives do you see, for example?

Consider the developments in recycling: new semi-synthetic materials made from old textiles, existing wool recycling processes and the growing focus on cotton recycling. These are all steps in the right direction.

There are less positive examples, too. Take recycled polyester, for instance, which initially seemed promising. A clothing label stating “made from recycled material” appears sustainable. However, using plastic soft drink bottles to create polyester clothing is not. It took years for this to become widely known.

A life cycle assessment (LCA) for textiles shows that new, biobased or recycled materials are not automatically more sustainable. The environmental impact depends on the specific application. To use materials more intelligently, more fundamental research is needed to determine which materials work best in which context. This is something that is still rare in this traditional industry.

7. Besides innovation, how do you view the role of collaboration?

The fashion industry was traditionally hesitant to share knowledge or assets. Now, companies and educational institutions are increasingly willing to collaborate. This is a positive and important development, as collaboration offers many benefits. It stimulates innovation, makes processes more efficient and helps the industry become more sustainable.

Collaboration with other disciplines is also becoming increasingly important. Consider, for example, mathematicians who can model new techniques and systems. Looking beyond one's own field can lead to solutions that enable real, fundamental change.

Sources:
- Interview with Natascha van der Velden on November 19, 2025.
- AI tools were used for the transcription of the interview and to support the writing of this article.

This article was translated to English using an AI tool.

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