Gianni Versace retrospective opens in London

The colourful world and creative legacy of the legendary fashion designer Gianni Versace is being celebrated in a new London exhibition featuring more than 450 rare and vintage Versace pieces, including items worn by celebrities such as Princess Diana, Elton John, and Kate Moss.

The 'Gianni Versace Retrospective,' which has already visited the Netherlands, Poland, Germany, Sweden and Spain, will be at the Arches London Bridge until March 2026. The new exhibition offers an updated and expanded deep dive into the visionary designer with a focus on three themes: Gianni Versace as an Italian and the impact of Italian cultural history on his work, his relationship with London and British personalities, and for the first time, a complete chronology, featuring looks from all seasons from autumn/winter 1987/88 to his final collection for autumn/winter 1997/98.

“With this retrospective, we celebrate the exceptional Italian designer Gianni Versace, a visionary far beyond being the founder of a fashion brand,” explain the exhibition organisers. “He was both a reflection of the rapid developments of his time and a driving force who brought those changes to life, who also amplified their impact.”

The exhibition, situation within the iconic brick arches underneath London bridge station, is the UK’s largest retrospective dedicated to Gianni Versace and features many items that have never been displayed in the UK before, as many of the pieces have been curated from private collectors around Europe, including Antonio Caravano, Rossella Catapano, Franco Jacassi, Salvatore Alderuccio, and Doris Brugger, who have been collecting his clothing for decades and preserving it for posterity.

Curator Karl von der Ahe from Dreamrealizer said in a statement: “Bringing this retrospective to London feels especially meaningful. Gianni Versace’s bold, unapologetic vision revolutionised fashion, and this city, so rich in creativity and cultural influence, provides the perfect stage to celebrate his legacy."

Arches London Bridge hosts 'Gianni Versace Retrospective’ featuring more than 450 Versace pieces

The retrospective opens with a spotlight on Gianni Versace’s love of daring and colourful prints, featuring an array of silk shirts from the wardrobe of Elton John, in a homage to both the designer’s affection for ostentatious design and his signature Barocco print and his friendship with the British singer, who collected every silk shirt designed by Gianni Versace.

The exhibition then focuses on Gianni Versace’s Italian heritage, how motifs from Italian cultural history and Catholicism inspired his work, such as neo-barque patterns and religious artifacts, spotlighted by a beaded and embroidered crucifix leather jacket from autumn/winter 1991/92, before stepping into his workspace, highlighting his interactive collaborative design process with a studio filled with rolls of fabrics, samples, buttons, studs and pins, as well as sketches featuring handwritten notes from the designer and Kodak photo prints, showing the designer’s hands-on approach to his fashion.

As well as highlighting Gianni Versace’s design talent, the exhibition also spotlights how the Italian designer was a brand maker, elevating the House of Versace with his glamorous and provocative take through marketing, by tapping world-renowned photographers, such as Richard Avedon and booking models like Kate Moss and Naomi Campbell for his campaigns and shows. It also shows how he expanded from apparel to accessories, homeware, and fragrances, as well as gold jewellery, which predominantly featured the Versace Medusa icon, highlighting his bold fusion of luxury and classic symbolism to create a full lifestyle brand.

'Gianni Versace Retrospective’ exhibition gets update for London visit

A focal point of the London iteration is the collections from spring/summer 1988 through to autumn/winter 1997, which are curated in chronological order, sharing iconic visual moments from the designer’s 19 years with his label. From the sharp tailoring and bold colour and print combinations of the 1980s to the theatrical opulence of his early 1990s aesthetic, spotlighting his vision of power and glamour, and his final collection before his untimely death.

The statement room within the exhibition is dedicated to Gianni Versace’s relationship with Britian, spotlighting his relationships with stars such as Princess Diana, Elton John, Elizabeth Hurley, Naomi Campbell, and Kate Moss, indicating how his fashion crossed over into popular culture, music and art, as well as how he helped the rise of the supermodel. Key looks that each star wore are spotlighted alongside photographs, editorial coverage and original catwalk footage.

His love of British style was highlighted with the introduction of safety pins into his so-called ‘bondage collection,’ which drew inspiration from the British punk scene and became an iconic element of his work. The Versace safety pin look became part of popular culture in the 1990s when Liz Hurley wore a black evening dress precariously held together at the side with large kilt pins to the premiere of Four Weddings and A Funeral, catapulting not only Versace into the mainstream but also the actress.

Liz Koravos, managing director of Arches London Bridge, said in a statement: “As a genius of his time, it’s fascinating to see these incredible collections assembled under the curved arches of the venue. Gianni Versace ties to so much in modern culture, and his legacy is enduring, a mark of a talented designer.

“Versace was a pioneer in collaborative art, something that is commonplace these days. The crossover between fashion, music, pop culture, fine art, antiquities, sculpture and the rise of the supermodel is all encapsulated in his work. The biggest collection of vintage Versace to ever visit the UK will give visitors a kaleidoscopic view of the 90’s.”