Pitti Uomo 110: Loud beats, quiet collections

On the grounds of the Fortezza da Basso, Florence, where temperatures surpassed 30 degree celsius, several brands blasted music at their neighbours simultaneously. Pitti Uomo 110 was loud, at least acoustically. The collections themselves were subdued in contrast. They were more minimalist and cleaner, with a focus on materiality and artisanal details. Wide silhouettes, linen suits, red accents and large weekender bags set the fashion tone for spring/summer 2027.

How wide can trousers be?

The collections seemed significantly quieter than in previous seasons. Apparel providers, from streetwear brands to more classic labels, increasingly showcased minimalist and cleaner designs. Young brands like the Berlin-based label Prohibited are focusing more on a preppy look instead of urban streetwear, translating the wide legs of their jeans into relaxed tailored trousers. For the first time, the brand also included a trench coat and fleece jumpers in its sailing-inspired collection.

In formal and businesswear, silhouettes also remain wide, although Digel has slightly reduced the volume. This was done to cater to the German company's target audience, explained Philippe Celeny. The managing director for France was pleased with the good footfall on the first two days of the trade fair; the Digel team had also scheduled almost 650 appointments in advance.

The target audience is a topic that French brand American Vintage is also addressing. Its vintage-oriented looks are sometimes “too oversized” for its retail partners and potential customers, reported Markus Dambacher. He oversees the menswear wholesale business in Germany, the second-strongest market after France, from a showroom in Düsseldorf. However, menswear only accounts for 20 percent of the brand's volume.

Even Olymp expanded its range for the upcoming order season to include trousers, which were previously only available through direct-to-consumer channels. Also new was the classic “Cover Shirt”, which the German shirt specialist added after acquiring its direct competitor, Eterna. Eterna itself was not present at the trade fair this time, as the brand is currently being realigned.

The Olymp stand was busy from the opening day, and footfall remained strong on the second day. To support its partners in the upcoming order season, the company will offer a new sales system, said Dennis Hierl, head of sales Western Europe. This system includes four modules in two sizes – ten and 20 products – which are thematically divided into categories like business or leisure and are designed to create new momentum with a special feature item.

More subdued collections focus on texture and details

In terms of materials, linen remains a key component for summer, as confirmed by Digel – for example, in a suit with Bermuda shorts – Olymp and Anerkjendt. The Danish brand is continuing to grow, recording an average annual increase of 35 to 40 percent, according to brand manager Jesper Møller Christiansen. The brand is currently particularly strong in the French market. Christiansen cited the presence of vibrant colour in the collection as an advantage that sets it apart from other Scandinavian brands. On display were a strong yellow, various shades of blue and a rusty red.

Although the colour palette of the SS27 collections was rather subdued with dominant earth tones, various shades of red repeatedly appeared as pops of colour. The Danish streetwear brand Woodbird used salmon; the German apparel providers Seidensticker and Dressler featured bordeaux; the Italian casualwear brand Paul & Shark opted for a rusty red; and Mackintosh chose a bright red. The Scotland-founded jacket specialist also integrated a soft green into its collection, while the Italian luxury brand Stefano Ricci presented a jacket in vibrant green and Premiata showcased an olive-green workwear vest.

The Italian brand was not alone in featuring a cargo vest. Prohibited and the US brand Woolrich also offered a casual version for the next fishing trip. Similarly, workwear and outerwear-oriented brands like Refrigiwear, Universal Overall and Dickies showed their often colourful interpretations of the classic camouflage pattern.

Several brands provided the hydration essential for the hot temperatures exceeding 30 degrees Celsius in Tuscany. These included dedicated bottle bags from the Korean streetwear brand Ajobyajo and the New York outerwear brand Refrigiwear. Additionally, the Amsterdam-based lingerie and leisurewear specialist Pockies offered a picnic vest with space for wine, a baguette and glasses.

In accessories, large weekender and shopping bags are indispensable in menswear this season. These were seen at denim expert Guess, Woolrich and Bugatti, among others. The German apparel provider integrated them into a collaboration with a beach resort in the Italian town of Forte dei Marmi, where the collection was celebrated on Wednesday evening in addition to its presentation at the trade fair.

Part of the Bugatti collection was a casual shirt with a brown and beige tartan pattern and floral embroidery. Overall, casual shirts and polo shirts from menswear brands for SS27 seem to require a certain texture. The Danish brand Gabba showed an airy, coarse knit, also with a floral pattern; the Copenhagen streetwear brand presented a crochet pattern with colourful squares; and Paul & Shark used a textured stitch.

Guest designers and special projects attract attention

Fashion highlights were primarily set by the programme of fashion shows and special projects curated by the trade fair organiser, Pitti Immagine. The collaborative brand of international fashion retailer Dover Street Market, which carries experimental contemporary brands like Rick Owens, Junya Watanabe and Comme des Garçons (CDG), presented its first collaboration with Kei Ninomiya. The designer from the CDG universe drew inspiration from various punk eras. Meanwhile, guest designer Simone Rocha questioned contemporary masculinity with a combination of tailoring, workwear and outerwear. The Korean label JiyongKim also generated excitement, spotlighting natural dyeing through sunlight with an exhibition on the trade fair grounds.

British designer William Palmer, who founded his eponymous label just last year after graduating from London's Central Saint Martins fashion school, also showed his current collection in Florence as the winner of the I:C Pitti Immagine Award 2026. His stand was set up like a London bus stop, where the mannequins were “waiting”. In his collection, Palmer explores various British archetypes, such as the businessman, interpreting them with a contemporary approach featuring voluminous silhouettes and playful details.

Despite declining visitor numbers: new trade fair director draws positive conclusion

The latest edition of Pitti Uomo welcomed 11,000 buyers over all four days, according to initial estimates. This is three percent fewer than a year ago, the trade fair organiser announced on Thursday. In total, there were more than 15,000 visitors from over 90 countries, including Spain, the UK, the Netherlands, Japan, France and China.

The new Pitti CEO, Ivano Cauli, who experienced his first menswear trade fair in this role, noted strong growth from Germany, the US, Hong Kong and Canada on the penultimate day. Some traditional European markets and distant countries like Australia faltered, presumably due to increased travel costs. He plans to draw a final conclusion after the trade fair closes on Friday. However, he is already confident.

“It's not just about numbers, because the atmosphere these days has been really positive from the start,” Cauli continued. “The main credit goes to the over 740 exhibitors who believed in and invested in the trade fair. Their collections express high craftsmanship and are always open to experimentation, combining contemporary flair with functional elements in the various styles of menswear.”