Fashion trend analysis: barrel-leg trousers

Fashion

Alaïa FW23-24 show Credits: ©Launchmetrics/spotlight

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Paris (France) - Barrel-leg trousers, also known as "tonneau" in French or "clown" trousers, seemed unlikely to move from the catwalks to the high street with their unique, voluminous cut. However, they have recently taken over everyday fashion for both men and women.

"Ready-to-wear has made it a staple that has replaced all the flared jeans of the moment," Bryan Ferreira, a style journalist for GQ magazine, explained to AFP.

Each decade has had its signature jean: the 1970s had bell-bottoms; the 1980s had 'mom jeans' (high-waisted, relaxed fit); the 1990s had baggy jeans (wide all over); and the 2010s had skinny, stretch jeans. Since 2020, trouser cuts have become more relaxed. The decade is now clearly defined by volume and fullness.

"It is a key silhouette for fabric developers, who are well aware of this trend towards comfort and volume," explains Julieta Mercerat, a denim consultant.

"For two seasons now, we have sensed that people want to move away from the minimalism that has neutralised fashion for several years. This minimalism erased traces of personal or cultural expression and standardised the search for style," she analyses for AFP.

First appearing in the Alaïa autumn/winter 2023-2024 show, this new balloon cut then exploded on social media thanks to Jacquemus, a designer beloved by Gen Z (the generation born between 1995 and 2010).

Best-seller

The balloon jean is a regular or high-waisted style. Instead of falling straight, it curves out to its fullest point at the thigh and knee before tapering towards the ankle, as if the leg forms a parenthesis. Its ancestor or distant cousin is the 'Oxford bag', the oversized baggy trousers of the 1920s, or the sarouel.

Viewed from the side, the leg does not fall in a straight line but curves slightly, like the side of a barrel, hence its name. "It immediately creates a graphic silhouette, turning the garment into a style statement," stylist Coppelia Mandin tells AFP. Mandin is from the creative agency Good Sisters, which specialises in dressing French actresses.

The barrel-leg trouser first thrived on Instagram before appearing in ready-to-wear shop windows. "It is a divisive style, however. When it was first posted on Instagram, people had very strong opinions. That is when we knew we had created a best-seller!" summarises Marianne McDonald, creative director for the Californian denim label Citizens Of Humanity, in Vogue.

Denim sustainability expert Julieta Mercerat also notes that the barrel-leg style contains no elastane, a highly polluting component, unlike straight or skinny cuts. This makes it more environmentally interesting.

Diabolical

For French stylist Coppelia Mandin, although it is not for everyone, the barrel-leg trouser “deconstructs the body and also allows you to hide your legs a bit”. On top, you should not try to compete with the volume. "You need something quite simple and close-fitting, a simple white T-shirt, for example," advises the expert. "Since it tapers at the bottom, you can opt for something delicate on your feet, like ballet flats or pumps." Libération's fashion columnist Sabrina Champenois sees a “not far from diabolical” trend in these trousers.

"To be in line with the current doxa, one must respect an opposition of proportions, being as slim as the garment is voluminous," she writes. This confirms that it is a fashion reserved for bodies that meet current standards.

For men, the barrel-leg trouser has found an unexpected place. It has won over stars on the red carpet, even replacing the timeless suit trouser.

"While the wide cut is not for everyone, for the man who has tired of the straight cut or is not yet ready for the ultra-wide style, a barrel-leg trouser offers a particularly elegant compromise," notes GQ magazine.

This article was translated to English using an AI tool.

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