Glamourati, Kidult, Scandi-cool: Exploring the many faces of maximalism

This time, it is here to stay. Far from being a mere fleeting extravagance, maximalism is poised to become a core trend. Its expression is multifaceted and its purpose is rooted in our deep-seated need for personal expression. Designer Harris Reed explained this intimate approach in a 2025 column for The New York Times: “Maximalism as I see it is not just about adding more, but revealing more. It is the art of the avant-garde and of excess, but a form of excess that expresses your own authenticity. (...) Through colour, texture, shine and imposing silhouettes, it directly contributes to building your personality.”

In other words, sartorial maximalism is considered. It is not limited to the eclectic prints and loud colours that appear when typing “fashion maximalism” into Google Images. Maximalism cannot be approached as a single aesthetic. More than ever, it is plural.

Maximalism and quiet luxury

Contrary to what many press articles claim, maximalism is not necessarily the opposite of the quiet luxury trend. As the agency WGSN points out, minimalism and maximalism coexisted brilliantly during the Paris autumn/winter 26/27 show season. A sophisticated look took over the catwalks, featuring structured shoulders, sharply defined waists and tapered trousers. “It is a modern take on power dressing, with a distinctly 80s feel,” noted the WGSN team on LinkedIn.

In an interview with FashionUnited, forecaster Christine Boland stated: “I think quiet luxury is a fundamental movement that is here to stay. It is a long-term trend.” According to her, this movement is still influenced by fashion. Leading quiet luxury brands play with “a different lining, piping or even a specific colour”.

One of its best expressions is Michael Rider at Celine. The artistic director perfectly illustrates this tension through his bourgeois silhouettes. Between the straight lines of deceptively classic pieces, he inserts the eccentricity of impactful details.

Kidult wave

A contraction of the English words kid and adult, this trend was already mentioned by FashionUnited for the Resort 27 collections. It targets a demographic raised on the Y2K aesthetic. Driven by a comforting nostalgia, these consumers are enthusiastic about playful graphic knitwear, adorned with whimsical faces and delightfully regressive animal motifs.

This movement has been discussed for several years, notably with the Labubu trend, a small plush toy that has adorned designer bags worldwide since 2024. While the craze for Labubu is now fading, the appeal of regressive accessories continues with Chiikawa. This franchise features ultra-kawaii, slightly anxious and melancholic little characters, or Monchhichi (also known as Kiki in France in the 80s).

One of its best expressions: Heaven by Marc Jacobs, the diffusion line from Marc Jacobs.

Glamourati and 'Boom Boom' aesthetic

Coined “boom boom” by Sean Monahan (the American consultant behind the normcore theory), this movement is the antithesis of quiet luxury and champions uninhibited exuberance. Here, the aesthetic celebrates unapologetic bling, spectacular volumes and a loud attitude that catches the light. A fashion designed to be seen.

One of its best expressions: Alessandro Michele's style is the closest expression of the Glamourati and “Boom Boom” aesthetic. The Italian designer's theatrical and ornate wardrobe first gained prominence during his tenure at Gucci. It is now making a strong comeback since his appointment as artistic director of Valentino.

Cluttercore

A direct heir to the bohemian maximalism popularised in the early 2010s, cluttercore elevates the “happy mess” to the ultimate proof of authenticity. It is particularly well expressed in the lifestyle sector but also applies to fashion. This is seen through silhouettes where a multitude of diverse pieces are layered, made up of vintage items, local craftsmanship and technical clothing.

Key representatives: the British brand Chopova Lowena, and the American labels Psychic Outlaw and Bode.

Copenhagen Fashion Week eccentricity

Popularised by editors and influencers at Copenhagen Fashion Week, it translates into vibrant colours, a clash of playful prints (florals alongside leopard print) and layering that is as bold as it is functional. This is a “Scandi-cool” maximalism, geared towards an upbeat energy.

Its most prominent representatives: influencer Pernille Rosenkilde and stylist, vintage seller and model Julie Blichfeld.