Glenn Martens gives H&M bestsellers a new twist

Around a year ago, H&M announced its collaboration with Glenn Martens. Now, the Swedish fashion retailer and the Belgian designer are offering a first glimpse into the upcoming collection.

“I firmly believe this is one of the most creative collaborations we have ever done,” said Ann-Sofie Johansson, creative advisor at H&M. “Glenn is a true talent and a radical thinker. These extraordinary designs play with archetypes and the essence of what it means to get dressed every day.”

From the archive for individualism

Martens, who delved deep into the Belgian brand's heritage for his debut as creative director of Maison Margiela earlier this year, also uses the H&M archive as a starting point for the capsule, H&M announced on Friday. This archive is reworked into womenswear, menswear and accessories in Martens' signature style.

The collection is a tribute to individuality and personal style, where everyday pieces are given an avant-garde touch. A do-it-yourself character and customisation options allow wearers to adjust the silhouettes and create their own look. This is achieved through features like hooks and eyes on dresses and jeans, which are a must-have from the head designer of the denim brand Diesel.

“I see this collection as a large family of garments, all with diverse uses and personalities. Like people, they grow and change every day,” said Martens. “I have always been interested in the clothes we actually wear in our daily lives. The idea of archetypes and basics was the starting point for this very special and joyful project with H&M.”

Trompe-l'œil effects run throughout the entire collection. For instance, a long-sleeved top features a printed knit top, and a form-fitting dress displays a checked evening gown. The pieces printed on the dress and top are from Martens' archive. For accessories, the effect is used on a silk scarf that depicts vintage necklaces. The designer also takes H&M's bestselling velvet skirt and adorns it with a kilt.

Martens’ highlands

In addition to the skirt, Martens' interest in British humour and non-conformist street style is evident in many other pieces, according to the press release. Alongside checks and tartan, a print of a Scottish castle is also part of the collection, featured on items such as hoodies.

His play on silhouettes is also expressed in this collection. Cargo trousers and over-the-knee boots, familiar from the Parisian brand Y/Project that made Martens famous, are given extra volume. Material innovations and techniques, such as foil linings used in pieces like bomber jackets, blazers and a trench coat, offer additional ways to shape the garments. An oversized quilted jacket also features a wire to give the model new dimensions. All these elements are combined in various bags, allowing their shape to be individually adjusted.

Alongside the must-have accessories – boots and bags – the range includes a belt without holes designed for draping on the body; sunglasses that look like two frames; and a checked scarf with a hood. For men, there are also classic H&M basics like five-packs of underwear and socks with “Glenn Martens” branding. The collection also includes steel-toed workwear boots with an adjustable leather upper that can be removed with press studs.

The boxer shorts, which he also wore at the press presentation, have already found a permanent place in his own wardrobe. He briefly showed them by pulling out the waistband with his own name from under his trousers. The designer joked that they would make it easier for him to distinguish his underwear from his partner's.

H&M x Glenn Martens

This is the first time the designer has created under his own name, rather than as creative director for Margiela, Diesel or Y/Project. The latter brand plays a particularly special role in the collaboration with H&M, Martens explained at the press conference before the launch.

Initially, when Johansson and Martens began the collaboration around two years ago, the focus was meant to be on him, not the brand, as he was still the creative director at Y/Project. After the end of the label, the designer became open to incorporating his design language from Y/Project into the collaboration. Martens stated this was to celebrate it and make it more accessible compared to the designer brand's higher-priced pieces, without losing its value.

His time at Y/Project was when he first appeared on the H&M team's radar, long before Diesel and Margiela, according to Johansson. Martens' own story, however, goes back much further.

Growing up in Bruges, Belgium, during his teenage years in the 1990s, there wasn't much in the way of fashion until H&M opened its first store, he said in the press talk. He loved the fashion retailer's clothes, which were “poorly secured” at the time, so he would occasionally pocket products to give to friends. Today, this story comes full circle as he once again simply picks what he wants – this time from his own collection and in consultation with H&M – to gift his loved ones for Christmas.

Consumers can purchase the collaboration online and in H&M stores worldwide from October 30.