Heavy loads and wisecracks: The SS26 trends of the men's fashion weeks

The merging of street and business attire appears to be the theme of the spring/summer 2026 menswear season. This gradual process, which had already begun in previous years, has now become established. Does this mean that the sometimes humorous and playful style, which appeals to a younger target audience, is being lost?

The SS26 menswear collections prove that growing up also involves a touch of humour. Life, and the global sentiment shaped by wars and crises, is serious enough anyway.

Boxer shorts

Trousers are slipping lower again, in homage to the 1990s hip-hop style, revealing puffed-up boxer shorts. Brands like Études and Dolce & Gabbana also exhibit, however, that the look doesn't have to rely solely on streetwear. Boxer shorts can also serve as a contrast in a classic outfit with a suit and shirt.

XXL bermudas vs. short shorts

Speaking of shorts, there seem to be two teams when it comes to “short” trousers for SS26. On the one hand, pants are getting shorter and shorter, as seen at Prada, Saint Laurent and Marke.

While the German label Marke still adds some volume to the piece, similar to a bubble skirt, the other two fashion houses display shorts that could almost pass as underwear.

In contrast to the 'short' shorts are pants for men who prefer to feel a light breeze and for whom trousers cannot be wide and long enough. Brands like C.R.E.O.L.E and PDF show extra-large Bermuda shorts with many patterns – an XXL version of the loose swimming trunks that go far beyond the knee. Sacai, meanwhile, opts for a more restrained and chic version, not designed for the beach.

Wisecrackers

No one could avoid “cheeky slogans” and quotes this season, which lie somewhere between posts on the social media platform Tumblr in the 2010s, wall tattoos and today’s WhatsApp statuses. The various pieces were mostly kept simple, thus putting the spotlight particularly on the slogan.

Designer Mihara Yasuhiro didn’t directly integrate such a look into his collection, but during the finale, he himself walked the catwalk in a wide grey T-shirt with “Don’t Tag Me” written on it in bright yellow block letters.

Mini prints

In addition to the slogans, all-over prints with small, simple drawings were also popular. Either motifs for jackets and T-shirts were multiplied or different graphics were combined to create one large overall picture in the style of hidden-object puzzles.

Workwear suits

Workwear has always been an important part of streetwear. This isn't changing with the move towards a more classic look. Such a direction was illustrated on the catwalk with overalls, which were either straight or loosely cut, depending on the material. Under one-piece garments, models typically wore simple shirts, sometimes even with a tie. This factory worker-inspired look was loosened up with casual styling, utilising sandals or a wool hat, bringing all three segments together.

Traditional costumes

Tradition and modernity also came together in the brands that were inspired by folk clothing, who then gave it a personal touch. The Berlin-based label Richert Beil, for example, showed a version of the classic Lederhosen in a black latex look. Craig Green, meanwhile, presented some wide, traditional-style leather belt straps with floral decorations reminiscent of the Alpine region.

Jonathan Anderson, meanwhile, followed in the footsteps of the founder Christian Dior and his interest in English culture for his Dior debut. Various floral embroideries were part of the collection – including a garland of flowers that stretched across a waistcoat.

Burden on the shoulders

This season, there seemed to be a particular focus on the shoulders in outerwear – perhaps as a visualisation of the burden currently on the fashion industry due to weak consumer sentiment. Silhouettes were particularly voluminous on the upper body – also similar to a protective armour – and mostly straight on the legs. 3.Paradis equipped a blazer with a huge spike on the sleeve.

Collars also seemed to be getting pointier and larger, sometimes extending far above the shoulders on open shirts in the style of the 1970s and 1980s. Close-fitting accessories such as scarves were tied around the neck.

Accessories to watch

Lavallière

The short neckerchief – with a tight or loose knot – has become one of the most popular menswear accessories to enhance a casual look in recent years. In addition, the designers of Men’s Fashion Week proved that the classic tie doesn’t always have to be stuffy. Nevertheless, another piece also seemed to be joining it to create the stylish yet casual summer look.

Brands such as Wales Bonner, System and Orange Culture Nigeria adorned their models with a lavallière scarf. The accessory, which lies somewhere between a silk scarf and a tie, and is particularly distinguished by slanted edges, was tied with a very loose knot. It was striking that all three brands presented the piece in the same tone as the respective shirt, so it didn’t immediately stand out.

Statement belts

Much more striking were the large belt buckles, which showed individual letters or even whole words. After the large trucker-style belt buckles had already made a comeback in recent years as part of the Y2K trend, it was clear that this type of belt would also find its way back into the limelight. Now all that’s missing is the return of the belt with an LED display.