Imperfect, transformative and full of illusions: Menswear trends from Milan

Milan Fashion Week for the autumn/winter 2026 season did not feature a packed schedule. Few major names presented their collections in the fashion capital. Nevertheless, there were several fashion highlights that explored themes of change and transformation.

Here is an overview of the latest trends from Milan.

Imperfect

Things got a little rougher at the Milan menswear shows this season. Several brands deviated from the perfect look, most notably Prada. The Italian fashion house intentionally “soiled” its shirts, showed wrinkled coats and fabric manipulations intended to represent wear and tear.

Meanwhile, the London-based brand Qasimi presented various hole-ridden pieces that looked as if they had been eaten by moths. Domenico Orefice's commitment to imperfection was less obvious but still clearly recognisable. The Italian brand showed a black and green striped shirt, among other things, where the black, applied horizontal stripes were frayed at the edges.

Trompe l'œil

Trompe l'œil was used by various brands for a wide range of pieces this season. London-based designer Saul Nash imitated pinstripes with a print on a suit and presented a cut-out top, including on a simple T-shirt. Milan-based designer Domenico Orefice used the concept to apply a necklace to a top.

Ludovico Bruno, who has also been creative director for the Canadian outerwear brand Moose Knuckles since the end of last year, played with a type of faux fur for his own brand, Mordecai. Instead of imitating the texture, he printed the fur look onto various jackets.

Inside out

The reversible jacket is not a new concept in the sports and outdoor sector. It is usually designed for functionality, often compromising on design. Oakley proves that it can be done differently with its fashionable ski jacket, which sits between streetwear and sportswear. Instead of concealing the inner pockets, the brand skilfully showcases them, presenting not just two different colours, but two different jackets.

Ten C also integrated the theme into its presentation. The Italian outerwear specialist gave a preview of its latest capsule with the Japanese menswear brand Comoli. This includes a two-piece set consisting of a jacket and trousers, as well as a coat.

This twist was not limited to sporty, urban looks. The Italian fashion house Prada also showed several simpler trench coats that concealed a different fabric and an additional button placket on the inside.

It's all in the mix

While many brands focus on one material per piece, some designers also play with a mix. The Italian label Maragno brings together different fabrics and textures sourced as deadstock from major fashion houses like Max Mara, explained the eponymous designer at his presentation. In the looks, the second fabric is integrated as an insert on the sleeve, among other places. The brands DSquared2 and Mordecai combine denim with synthetic fabrics for various jacket models.

Deep dive

Inspiration is increasingly being drawn from the 2010s, replacing Y2K, a trend that has been emerging for several seasons. For AW26, designers seem to have focused on the neckline. These are now becoming deeper again, whether as a crew neck or a V-neck.

They do not yet reach the navel; stylists would rather omit the T-shirt under the jacket altogether. However, they do offer a much deeper glimpse than before. Such styles were seen at Prada, DSquared2 and Dolce & Gabbana, among others.

Ski coats

In the outerwear and sports specialist sector, there was a trend towards longer ski jackets. Compared to the previously popular puffer coat, these pieces, seen at brands like K-Way and Oakley, not only have an urban look but also all the functions needed for the slopes.

There were further differences in the silhouettes. While K-Way presented a straight-cut model, the Chinese sporting goods manufacturer Li-Ning showed several versions of a wide-cut coat, whose shape was reminiscent of capes or wingsuits.

Wildest shoes

Finally, the focus shifts downwards. In Milan, two brands particularly caught the eye with their shoes. Japanese designer Satoshi Kuwata, who is behind the Milan-based brand Setchu, presented various shoe models, from flat sandals to boots, that were woven from straw.

The luxury label DSquared2 focused on the ski boot with its winter sports-inspired collection, offering various models for women and men. In menswear, the shoe was mixed with a cowboy boot, while in womenswear it was transformed into a high-heeled boot.