In Pictures: AW27/28 trends through the lens of Christine Boland

During the last trade shows (SS27), it was clear that some colours have secured their place. “Aubergine, for example, or yellow, which took a long time to catch on,” says Christine Boland in a video call with FashionUnited.

Looking ahead to autumn/winter 2027/28, new colour movements are emerging. Retro shades like mustard and chartreuse will become important. Boland also foresees creamy white and ‘sensual black’, as well as bold red, yellow, blue, green and purple. The Dutch trend analyst emphasises: “You cannot really separate a colour from the way it is applied.”

Boland describes the current zeitgeist as ‘heavily overcast’. “People are numbed by world events and simultaneously being overtaken by AI.” AI tools are leading to homogenisation: visual and formal language is threatening to become increasingly similar. “We also see this in language; the tone of AI quickly gives itself away, something you see more and more on LinkedIn.”

The positive aspect is the counter-reaction. “Fashion is once again doing what it is meant to do — showing initiative, surprising people and expressing uniqueness,” says Boland. Creativity is growing in importance. At the last edition of Modefabriek, it was already clear that the fun is back in collections, she points out. “Fashion is becoming fashion again, and that is very exciting.”

AW27/28 trend: individual familiarity

Boland expects to see this movement the most. “It is very much about seeking stability in tradition; think of the blazer, the skirt, trousers and the suit. It hints at the traditional and classic, but the way it is combined makes it unique and individual.” To make these combinations, colour is necessary, she explains.

One collection will opt for brownish-green, very retro, and contrast it with bright chartreuse, while another fashion brand might use four types of checks in a single garment. “You can already see the latter on young women in the street.”

The colour palette aligns with the retro-vintage feel. Boland mentions mustard-like shades; browns; rich olive or spinach greens; copper-bronze brown; historic pastels; and aubergine, which is here to stay.

‘Blue cheese blue’ or a stark Yves Klein blue can function as an accent colour, Boland continues, ‘though you would choose one or the other’. “A marl jumper in olive green and copper-brown from a clothing brand like No Man’s Land, for example, does not need a blue accent at all. However, with a plain jumper, a bright blue T-shirt peeking out from underneath can work,” says Boland.

This trend can be seen at brands including Prada, Etro (‘the folklore-esque feel’), Zankov and Acne Studios.

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Dramatic antidote

“The only answer to these times is beauty,” Dries Van Noten aptly put it, describing his decorated palazzo in Venice, for which visitors are queuing. “That sums it up well,” Boland says of this trend movement.

In a time when current events feel heavy, Dramatic Antidote seeks out beauty, seduction and wonder. “Why wait for a party to dress up?” Fashion can be rich and opulent again, with luxurious fabrics like brocade, lace and satin; historic prints; and large accessories, such as earrings.

Within the colour palette, creamy white plays an important role. It is combined with historic prints in more subdued colours, complemented by what Boland calls gemstone colours.

Black is also important, with various designers featuring the colour from head to toe. “Perhaps the use of black symbolises a sense of mourning for what we are all losing in these destructive times.” This black is not gothic, Boland emphasises. “It is a refined beauty with a dark undercurrent.”

Inspiration comes from designers such as Dries Van Noten, Fendi, Christian Dior, Etro and Connor Ives.

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Unapologetic presence

Unapologetic Presence is all about large, powerful silhouettes that take up space, both literally and figuratively. On the catwalk, this powerful look was seen at Bottega Veneta, Carven, Issey Miyake and Loewe, where the female models held their own. “It is truly about women reclaiming their role in a world where misogyny is rearing its head and a phenomenon like the tradwife movement can exist.”

In terms of silhouettes and use of colour, the trend is reminiscent of the eighties, but the execution is distinctly contemporary.

These are primary and secondary colours such as bright red, bright yellow, bright blue, bright green and purple. The combination of these bold colours with black, beige and off-white creates a contemporary look.

The trend is already cautiously trickling down to the high street, as seen at Zara, where the first experiments with Carven’s rounded shoulders are visible, according to Boland.