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Labels to Watch: Knits

By Barbara Russ

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Fashion

Maiami, photo Elena Breuer

Knitwear is a winter wardrobe classic, but lightweight knitwear is also becoming increasingly popular in the summer season. The benefits are clear: knitwear is beautifully crafted and very versatile, made in wool or cashmere it can be warming yet breathable, in cotton or synthetic fibres it can be water repellent and lightweight. And knitwear is comfortable, a requirement that every garment will have to meet in our (post-)pandemic world. We’ve gathered labels that specialize in knitwear and can be ordered right now.

Bielo, Spring/Summer 21

Bielo

The label Bielo springs from a Catalan family business with more than 30 years of experience in producing high-quality knitwear and accessories for major luxury fashion houses. Josep Puig, the youngest of the family, has now combined his passion for knitwear with his production knowledge to create his own brand, Bielo.

This special blend of tradition and innovation results in a refreshing aesthetic of modern yet discreet classicism: unique variations on traditional cuts and a fascinating variety of textures. The collection is made with the “Wholegarment” knitting technology by Shima Seiki, in which products are knit in three dimensions without seams and which is appreciated by leading fashion houses. It combines Japanese know-how and European craftsmanship with a distinctly Catalan touch. Since its first collection for SS15, Bielo has consistently offered strong, timeless essentials and subtle statement pieces in contrasting colours.

Target group: people looking for elevated basics that are fun yet sophisticated.

Stockists: Bielo's current collection is available on bielo.cat and at the Bassal Store (Barcelona) as well as at EDEM Chambre Privée in Munich.

Distribution: Distribution is currently done in-house, contact: info(at) bielo.co

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Price point: For the current collection, which mainly consists of accessories, prices vary between 40 and 135 euros.

Bestsellers: The main focus of the current collection is on the bags. Bestsellers include the Springy Stripe Bag and the Bouncy Tote Bag.

Maison Kniit Milano

Maison Kniit

The story of Maison Kniit Milano began a century ago in Milan with the knitwear factory BIGI. Today, nothing remains of its origins, except for the know-how that Francesca Carola Ferrari has preserved - know-how that she now expertly passes on. Maison Kniit's collections feature baby alpaca, superfine merino and mohair wool, as well as eco-cashmere. The collection of sustainably sourced fair-trade luxury pieces is made entirely in Italy.

Sustainability: "We want to completely rethink the fashion industry and move to a new circular economy. We need to change the system by moving to circular fashion and eliminating the concept of waste. We are a company focused on developing innovative circular and regenerative technologies that transform waste into valuable fibres, yarns and textiles for the fashion industry," writes Francesca Carola Ferrari writes via email. "We have replaced all cashmere for knitwear with regenerated yarn. The yarn, produced in Italy, is made from unused industrial waste and reduces the environmental impact by 92 per cent compared to pure cashmere."

Stockists: Maison Kniit is sold at Tonja Concept in Gstaad and Basel, Boutique First in Crans-Montana in Switzerland, among others, as well as via the website.

Distribution: internationally via the Milan office: commercial(at)kniitmilano.com

Price point: Prices start at 300 euros for a simple jumper and go up to 1000 euros for a jacquard coat.

Bestsellers: the Rubens jumper and all items made of eco-cashmere.

Mouleta Cashmere

Mouleta

Cashmere felted by hand - that's what the Mouleta brand stands for. The scarves are distinguished by their superior quality, high wearing comfort and particularly long life. Mouleta's history begins with the goats and goatherds of Inner Mongolia. The products are made by spinners, weavers and knitters in the heart of Nepal.

Sustainability: Mouleta's cashmere is washed and carefully hand-felted in production facilities in Nepal, using a unique process. One hundred percent cashmere wool without chemical additives. The production facilities in Kathmandu have been awarded by the 'Nepal Pashmina Industries Association' for their sustainable and environmentally conscious production of cashmere products.

Target group: Unisex for all! The product convinces with absolute feel-good character

Stockists: Reischmann, Identita Italiana, Ludwig Beck in Germany, among others.

Distribution: Check the contact for your country under the ‘Showrooms’ section of the brand’s website.

Price point: 219 euros for plain scarves, 249 euros for scarves with colour gradients and prints, 399 euros for knitted cashmere sweaters

Maiami, photo: Elena Breuer

Maiami

Founded in 2004, without capital or a business plan, the Maiami label really takes knitted uniques seriously. So every single piece is produced by hand by one person. Founder Meike Dietrich initially provides the pattern design, which is often inspired by old films, such as the rocket jumper from the classic "Shining". Passionate home knitters from all over Germany and other EU countries then produce the pattern in small editions. In this way, the individual pieces correspond to each other, but still become unique pieces with their own character. "You can feel and see that a person has had a hand in it," says Maike Dietrich.

Sustainability: With its manual production, Maiaimi sets a high standard in terms of sustainability, because it does not need much more than the body's own energy of the people who knit them. In addition, there is hardly any material waste when knitting by hand. The wool is obtained from species-appropriate husbandry and in an animal-friendly way. Starting with the cashmere, whose supplier belongs to the CCMI association for cashmere and camel hair, to the regionally sourced merino wool, which is sheared without mulesing, to the Spanish mohair, for which Maiami closely monitors compliance with PETA manufacturing guidelines.

Stockists: Maiami currently sells around 8,000 pieces per year. They are sold in 18 countries through almost 200 boutiques, concept and department stores. These include KaDeWe in Berlin, the Stuttgart fashion retailer Breuninger, as well as Fred Walker and Elyse Walker in Los Angeles.

Distribution: Germany, Austria, Switzerland: Studio Pezzetta. info(at) studiopezzetta.com, International: sales(at)maiami.de

Price point: The price range is between 200 euros and 1,300 euros for cashmere pieces.

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Mello-o

Mell-O

Sensual luxury paired with colourful joie de vivre - that's the colourful tie dye socks by Mell-O. They are made from cashmere using the tie-dye & dip-dye technique. Founded by Berlin-based product designer Olivia Pflugfelder, comfort and high quality, as well as durability and lasting value, are at the core of the label.

"Cashmere impresses with its outstanding natural warmth insulation and gives colours a unique radiance. It was important to me that Mello becomes an expression of joy, and the special dyeing technique used, means that no two socks are alike," said Pflugfelder.

Sustainability: "The idea for Mell-O came about with the idea of using surplus stock at cashmere producers. Creating something new individually from the raw materials and yarns leads to sustainable upcycling and thus to the creation of noble, distinctive batik socks," says Pflugfelder.

Target group: The socks are unisex statement pieces that can be worn all year round.

Delivery times: Currently on 4-6 weeks from stock

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Stockists: Mello-o is available at Apropos in Cologne, Anita Haas in Hamburg, Lodenfrey Munich, The Wants Cologne or directly at mell-o.de.

Distribution: Germany: Agentur Kappler office(at)agentur-kappler.de

Price point: A pair of Mell-O socks costs 98 euros.

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