Marks & Spencer design head on incoming trends and how it builds collections

As the new year fast approaches, retailers are continuing to prep for the upcoming SS25 season. A one that promises wide-ranging shifts in both the needs and tastes of customers, who are tightening their wallets while yielding to the revolving format of micro and seasonal trends. It's a juxtaposition that presents an interesting challenge for retailers, yet of them all, Marks & Spencer appears to have aptly adjusted to the landscape.

In recent years, the British department store giant has rejuvenated its design and buying teams, as well as its approach to styling, efforts that have since been reflective in consumer responses to collections. In its most recent financial report for the first half of the current year, for example, the retailer even reported that clothing had now delivered market share growth for four consecutive years.

This reception to its clothing ranges has, in fact, prompted the retailer to consider fashion-only stores, trials for which could begin to take shape before the end of the year–however, concrete plans are yet to be confirmed. This new store concept would follow the digital transformation of its Clothing & Home business, the establishment of a sports-focused platform, and the rollout of third-party brands in its stores, all of which have taken a more cemented presence in 2024.

To get some insight into how Marks & Spencer forms its range, FashionUnited talked with Lisa Illis, head of design for womenswear, who spoke on preparations for the season ahead, the retailer’s position as a “trusted editor” and the reluctance of ‘Quiet Luxury’ to stand down.

Trends to look out for: Fringing and bubbles and lace, oh my

“Over the last few seasons, we have seen that our customers appreciate which trends we are presenting, and the way in which we are making them easy to buy into, ensuring versatility and relevance,” Illis said.

With this in mind, Illis outlined some of the trends the team was looking to incorporate into the collection for the spring and summer 2025 season. Among them is an innate presence of feminine-forward styles, from lace and bows to more boho elements like fringing, faux leather or suede. In the way of colours, a palette of red, raspberry and ‘frosted pink’ will further mirror this reliance on femininity, while ‘modern utility’ will also take precedence, shown in green, khaki and stone tones.

Illis reaffirmed these trends while referencing the purchasing decisions she has seen among Marks & Spencer consumers, many of which are motivated by life events like parties, Christmas and holidays.

She added: “We are finding that customers want more trend-informed newness in their ranges as they gain more confidence in how we are presenting them, online, in windows or on mannequins/displays in stores. They want clothes that make them feel feminine and confident. That are versatile and that they can wear and style in different ways, and that could live beyond a season.”

Quiet Luxury won’t go down quietly

One of the more stubborn trends of the past year has also had its grip on Marks & Spencer. If you don’t know already, ‘Quiet Luxury’ refers to an iteration of luxury that relies less on extravagance and logomania, and more on high quality, low-key staples that still exude an elevated essence. Unlike fast-paced, social media-based microtrends, this understated way of dressing has remained steadfast in its influence on the industry.

“Quiet luxury is about feminine, timeless style, but it’s also about making smart choices,” Illis said of the trend itself. “By investing in fewer, higher-quality pieces and caring for them properly, you can create a wardrobe that lasts a lifetime, both in terms of durability and style.”

At the core of consumer purchases in this area are investment pieces, reflecting a ‘buy less but better’ mentality that has influenced shopping behaviour. In this regard, a survey conducted for Marks & Spencer showed that outerwear came out on top as the leading category to ‘invest in’, with 31 percent of respondents stating that they spent the most on coats and jackets. These were followed by tops at 28 percent and dresses at 21 percent.

How Marks & Spencer is building out its range

This preference for wardrobe staples was also recognised by Illis, who said: “We design and build our ranges (AW and SS) with careful consideration of building blocks in customer wardrobes. We can see that there is a need for everyday pieces and hard-working staples, as well as pieces for an event or more memorable occasions.”

From Illis’ perspective, Marks & Spencer is a platform its consumers trust in delivering the right trends at the right time. A large part of this trust has accumulated with support from a small internal trend team that gathers insights from catwalks, streetstyle, and other sources.

Illis added: “We incorporate these insights into a design and commercial brief which delivers monthly and seasonal trends. We also act as ‘trusted editors’ in assessing which trends are relevant for us as a business. Some would not fit with our brand image and would not resonate with our customers.”

Expanding on this, Illis explained: “Within each range we are always considering previous commercial successes but equally we know customers. Female customers enjoy clothes, and so the blend of newness, familiar, essential and exciting fresh trends interpreted in a considered way is a good formula. We are regularly asking customers their views on ranges, fit and campaigns to ensure our ranges strike a perfect balance.”