Menswear: five things to know before the Paris shows begin

Paris - Véronique Nichanian's farewell at Hermès, Jonathan Anderson's second Dior collection, and the Jacquemus finale are among the highlights of the upcoming menswear shows. Starting Tuesday in Paris, this ready-to-wear edition promises several key moments. Here are five things to know.

Pressure to sell

Over six days, 66 houses will unveil their collections for next winter through 36 shows and 30 presentations.

Following a 2025 marked by a major reshuffle of creative directors, this edition is set to be more measured. In October, what many specialists dubbed the “Fashion Week of the century” saw the debuts of numerous creative directors. These included Matthieu Blazy at Chanel and Jonathan Anderson for Dior womenswear.

Now, “we are entering a phase of reduced stakes and expectations,” Marc Beaugé, editor of L'Étiquette, French lifestyle and men's fashion magazine, told AFP. He believes that “the season is not very exciting.”

“We are in the midst of an economic crisis, and this has repercussions on creativity,” analyses Marie Ottavi, a fashion journalist at French newspaper Libération. She expects “very pragmatic collections” to meet the “challenge of selling.”

“For the past few seasons, the focus has been less on creativity and more on reassurance,” agrees Franck Nauerz, director of menswear at Le Bon Marché and La Samaritaine.

Young designer Jeanne Friot opens the event

A rising star in French fashion, designer Jeanne Friot is showing on the official calendar for the first time after two years of presentations. The 30-something, known for her inclusive and socially conscious fashion, will kick off fashion week on Tuesday at 3pm CET. This will be followed by the highly anticipated Pharrell Williams show for Louis Vuitton in the evening.

Among the newcomers, Italian designer Luca Magliano, winner of the 2023 Karl Lagerfeld Prize, will also show for the first time. Meanwhile, the labels ERL; KML; Sonia Carrasco; and Ssstein are joining the calendar for the first time in the “presentation” category.

Jonathan Anderson at Dior: pressure mounts

On Wednesday afternoon, Dior will present the second menswear collection by Jonathan Anderson. It is one of the most anticipated events of this Fashion Week.

Following a praised summer collection in June and a more mixed reception for his first womenswear line, the 41-year-old Northern Irish designer returns with a closely watched autumn/winter menswear proposal.

Considered one of the major talents of his generation, Anderson must now convince the industry and establish the new identity he is creating for Dior Homme.

“There is high expectation and great pressure,” notes Alice Feillard, director of menswear buying at Galeries Lafayette.

Véronique Nichanian's final show at Hermès

An emotional moment is expected on Saturday evening when French designer Véronique Nichanian presents her final collection for Hermès.

After 37 years at the helm of the menswear line, the 71-year-old Parisian announced her departure in October. A rare female designer in the world of menswear, she leaves behind a legacy of timeless and refined masculinity.

Her succession is already secured. The 30-something British designer Grace Wales Bonner will unveil her first collection in January 2027.

Loewe and Saint Laurent absent

This edition is notable for a few absences. The Spanish brand Loewe was expected to hold its first menswear show under the direction of American designers Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez. However, it has opted to present a co-ed collection during the womenswear Fashion Week in March.

Saint Laurent, which returned to the official calendar in June, is once again absent.

These absences, however, allow “other more independent, smaller but well-established brands to have a greater presence on the calendar,” notes Alice Feillard. She cites French labels Lemaire and AMI, as well as the American designer Rick Owens.

Pillars of the calendar, Japanese houses Issey Miyake and Yohji Yamamoto will also be present, along with French labels 3.Paradis and Egonlab.

French designer Simon Jacquemus will close the event with a show at the Musée Picasso, which is expected to attract numerous celebrities.