Menswear: Issey Miyake plays with form in Paris

Japanese house Issey Miyake presented the new collection from its IM Men label in Paris on Thursday. The show took place on the third day of Paris Fashion Week, showcasing a fluid and colourful range.

Unveiled in the heart of the Collège des Bernardins, the new autumn collection was aptly named "formless form". Coats were long and loose, as were the wrap trousers and sarouels. These garments danced to the rhythm of the models' steps and were layered with large tunics.

Some trousers and puffer jackets appeared to be cut from duvets. Ties were worn excessively long or thrown over the shoulder, while multiple scarves were combined to create ponchos.

The initial silhouettes in black, white, beige and brown were followed by brightly coloured outfits. Bright pink was paired with orange or purple, and blue with yellow, all linked by a gradient of green.

The looks were accessorised with very soft ankle boots or trainers, docker beanies and cloche hats with integrated scarves.

Established in 2021, the IM Men label is led by three members of the Miyake Design Studio: Sen Kawahara, Yuki Itakura and Nobutaka Kobayashi. The brand has been showing in Paris since January 2025.

It succeeded the Homme Plissé brand, which had previously been the Japanese house's focus for its Paris menswear shows.