Minimalism with a twist: Simone Bellotti presents his debut at Jil Sander

One of the debuts at Milan Fashion Week was designer Simone Bellotti's for Jil Sander. The new creative director chose to return to the brand's Milanese headquarters, drawing inspiration from it for his first collection.

Scroll down for the catwalk looks.

The last time the fashion house showed its collection in its own office was in 2017, under the direction of creative director Rodolfo Paglialunga. Since then, design duo Lucie and Luke Meier have been at the helm of the brand, departing in 2025. Bellotti calls the return to the headquarters “a new beginning” in the show notes.

The style of Jil Sander, the founder of the fashion house, is characterised by minimalism. Bellotti seems to have taken this to heart. “Is it possible to omit and at the same time leave a personal mark? Does less make more possible? Is it better to opt for directness or for refinement, to add or remove layers, to polish to perfection or to leave something unfinished?” These are all questions the creative director has asked himself.

The debut collection is focused around “purity as a mode, not a limitation”. Both womenswear and menswear appeared on the catwalk, contrasting sombre neutral tones with pastels and vibrant colours. Dark blue is combined with red or butter yellow; orange with grey; and pastel pink with brown. This honours the brand's heritage, as Sander herself liked to combine white or black with a bold colour. Bellotti chooses to expand the colour palette slightly further and engage more in colour blocking.

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Simone Bellotti debuts at Jil Sander: a new beginning from the Milanese headquarters

The silhouettes are “strictly vertical”, according to the show notes. A surprising element is the small cut-outs, like a slash in paper. They appear halfway down a skirt or just below the waist. A larger opening is featured in a top and two dresses, revealing a large part of the torso with a bralette underneath. The play on form is subtly echoed in jackets with slightly rounded shoulders and sleeves, or gathered at the buttons.

Bellotti's debut feels true to Sander's heritage, rather than a designer imposing his personal style on a brand from a completely different background. This is not about a star designer bringing his fans and entourage to a new fashion house. Instead, it is about someone who respects the brand's history, refreshing it and presenting something authentic without too much fuss.