New York goes to Europe: US brands swapping home turf in pursuit of brighter lights

It has long been argued whether New York Fashion Week has been obscured in the shadow of its European peers. Year-after-year, the city sees some of its homegrown talent turn to where they think the grass may be greener, in the hope of possibly securing a larger market share among the continent’s most affluent.

It could be that New York’s increased emphasis on upcoming talent is one factor that has driven away the more established names, each likely looking to see their respective brands up alongside the more beefed up schedules of Paris and Milan. Here, European luxury giants remain steadfast, offering up budget-heavy spectacles in place of the typical runway. Other than that, some of New York’s largest figures – namely, Tommy Hilfiger and Ralph Lauren – while remaining loyal to New York, are only scheduled intermittently.

There have been efforts to build up the Big Apple’s appeal, however. Back in 2022, US designer Thom Browne was appointed the role of chairman of the Council of Fashion Designers of America (CFDA) – a contract that will expire this year – and with him came a slight refocus at the organisation. In the position, Browne was assigned the hefty task of strengthening the impact of American fashion in the global economy, pushing forward American designers as beacons of success.

Yet, as evidenced by Browne – who since the appointment has notably held shows in both New York and Paris – the ostentatious lights of Italy and France keep drawing American designers back. It begs the question, if these designers truly loved their New York home – many of whom regularly reference the city affectionately through their designs and storytelling – why is it that this sentiment is not reflected in support for the city’s own fashion week?

With the men’s fashion week season coming to a close, FashionUnited takes a look back at some of the AW24 collections of US designers and their entanglement with Europe’s fashion capitals.

Todd Snyder and Woolrich

Until FW20, US-born designer Todd Snyder was at the forefront of each New York Fashion Week schedule, offering attendees collection-after-collection of American-infused lines alongside collaborations with some of the country’s leading brands. This was until Snyder seemingly disappeared from the fashion show limelight, only to resurface this year with the news that he was to appear as the spotlight guest at Florentine menswear fair Pitti Uomo. Not only this, but the Iowa-native was also announced as the latest creative director to oversee a new line for Woolrich, dubbed Black Label by Todd Snyder.

While the initial collection had been teased at Pitti, it wasn’t until later in January that the industry got to glimpse the whole offering as Snyder made his official runway return amid Paris Men’s Fashion Week. Here, both the designer’s Woolrich line was combined with that of his namesake brand under the title ‘The Modernist’. It must be noted that, while Snyder’s previous collections remained intrinsically US-focused, the designer did often reference influences of British Savile Row tailoring, a mindset that had continued into his latest collection, which looked to showcase a rejuvenated iteration of the ‘British Drape’ through menswear staples. For his Woolrich debut, this concept was contrasted by a selection of outerwear that drew on the label’s heritage, evident in military coats, down puffers and quilted pants.

KidSuper

In the realm of streetwear and hype culture, it is no surprise that Brooklyn served as the breeding ground for emerging labels that provide just that. It is also here that FIT graduate Colm Dillane conceived the concept of KidSuper in 2010, building on the back of a homegrown T-shirt business that began in his parent’s basement. Dillane first garnered awareness at his debut NYFW show in 2013, yet it wasn’t until 2020 when the label got the attention of a more global fanbase, largely thanks to the designer’s pandemic-induced, live-streamed event ‘Living Room Fashion Show’. From there, KidSuper has been catapulted into the wider industry, even capturing the attention of French label Louis Vuitton – known more recently for its increased ventures into the streetwear world – which appointed Dillane the role of guest designer for the AW23 collection.

Akin to the French luxury giant, Dillane is also partial to a spectacle for his own shows. This was no different for his most recent production for AW24, where he presented his latest collection dubbed ‘String Theory’. Suitably, the line was accompanied by live violinists who performed passionately alongside a male ballet dancer. Through 42 pieces, Dillane took viewers through the world of NY winter, offering up chunky knitwear, deconstructed trenches and exaggerated fur coats. While celebs have become an integral part of KidSuper’s front row, for this season they were also evident on the runway, with Brazilian footballer Ronaldinho Gaúcho making a surprise appearance sporting a previously unveiled jersey.

Rick Owens

While California-born Rick Owens may have made his runway debut at New York Fashion Week for the FW02 season, the designer’s love-affair with Paris has been long running. In fact, just a year on from his New York event, he moved to the City of Lights and later set up his atelier and home in a former French president’s house. He has since largely stuck to his Parisian base to host the rest of his runways, including the most recent AW24 collection, which was actually held in his home itself – parting from his usual location of the Palais de Tokyo.

And – as has become synonymous with the eccentric designer – an apocalyptic flair took over Paris Men’s Fashion Week. Yet, while Owens has distanced the business from his land of birth, it was this collection that actually drew on his past for reference. Notably, the line was entitled ‘Porterville’, the name of the town where Owens was raised. In addition to this, garments in the collection took the form of the location’s landscape, with California’s Sierra Nevada mountain range reflected in architectural jackets and shagged wrap around bundles.

Amiri

Despite the apparent increased tendency of holding shows in LA – see the past spectacle by Balenciaga – young brands from the West Coast are still making the giant leap towards Europe in the hope of capturing an audience there. Amiri is among these names, making its runway debut in 2018 at Paris Men’s Fashion Week, where it brought its California-esque aesthetic to the city’s luxury crowd. Its presence has since only been cemented by the influx of celebrities on the front row, a fact that was only emphasised this most recent season, with the likes of Chris Brown, Gunna and Kai Isaiah Jamal being just some of those on the 800 plus guest list.

Like many before, Mike Amiri, the designer behind the namesake brand, also referenced the land of his origin in a show that depicted the grandeur of Hollywood. The runway’s classic movie setup and its timeless essence was further elevated through the series of deconstructed American tuxedos that made their way down it. It was a conscious shift for the designer to make a slight return to his roots, telling GQ that a young Leonardo DiCaprio served as the muse for his AW24 designs, each expressing an LA feeling yet with a language that has incorporated his European surroundings.

Ernest W. Baker

Another newbie on the Parisian scene is Ernest W. Baker, a brand that takes its name from the grandfather of Reid Baker, one half of its design duo alongside Ines Amorim. He also serves as the muse of the label, informing its signature menswear classics that further incorporate influences of the designers’ American and Portuguese backgrounds. While it may be that America is where Baker finds his roots, both himself and Amorim studied in Milan, later moving between Paris and Antwerp before becoming LVMH Prize nominees, a feat that contributed to a boost in the commercial side of the business.

In past interviews, Baker, who descends from Utah, has often mentioned that his being from the US has allowed him to bring a different “outsider” perspective to the brand. It has further influenced the exploration of related concepts, such as the ‘American Dream’, through collections. Moving slightly away from this, however, the duo opted to shoot their Paris Men’s Fashion Week presentation in Porto, their home base, where a rebellious take on formalwear took a spot in the limelight. The line varied from out-there statement pieces, such as a gold suit or a leopard print, fur hem co-ord, to more wearable garments, like the 70s-esque flares and fitted overcoat.