Pitti Uomo preview: Shinyakozuka, the brand creating 'wearable picture books'

The Pitti Uomo fashion trade fair, held between January 13 to 16, will bring together industry professionals from around the world in Florence, Italy. Among the many exhibiting brands from across the globe, one brand will present a special runway show alongside last year's LVMH Prize winner Sohsiotsuki and Headmayer. That brand is the Japanese label Shinyakozuka.

Shinyakozuka's identity is defined by the ambiguity of its brand concept. Many people have experienced memories being evoked by a particular scent or piece of music. Shinyakozuka, however, attempts to recreate memories not through smell or sound, but through sight—through fashion.

The brand is characterised by designs reminiscent of a boy's fantasy, evoking picture books like 'The Little Prince' or fantasy films. Its brand concept is 'picturesque scenery'. It has translated these vague images and emotions into clothing through silhouettes, textures, and spacious proportions.

Fashion as part of a landscape

Designer Shinya Kozuka graduated with distinction from London's prestigious Central Saint Martins in 2013 and launched his current brand, Shinyakozuka, in 2015. The brand presents collections inspired by landscapes, clothing from his time in London, or the designer's own drawings.

Kozuka's collections stand apart from common fashion themes such as avant-garde expressions of antithesis to society, or homages to and redefinitions of specific cultures. In an interview with fashion and culture media outlet Qui, Kozuka explained that he begins his design process not with a specific message to convey, but with an initial thought: “Wouldn't it be lovely if this kind of clothing existed in this landscape?”

He treats clothing as merely one element within a remembered scene. He focuses on the overall atmosphere and image of the collection rather than the details of the garments, aiming to leave room for the viewer's interpretation.

Shinyakozuka's collections also function as a reflection of the designer's own imagination and experiences. The autumn/winter 2024 collection, marking the brand's tenth anniversary, was based on a picture book Kozuka created as a student. Following the story of a protagonist who discovers and becomes captivated by colour, the collection progressed from monochrome garments to colourful ones. Similarly, the autumn/winter 2025 collection, themed “Good morning, I wish I could fly, never mind,” expressed the story of a penguin dreaming of flight across the entire runway.

The collaboration with Dickies, which began with the spring/summer 2021 collection and continues to this day, was a key factor in raising the brand's profile. Dickies' classic, durable T/C twill work jackets and trousers were reimagined in Shinyakozuka's signature oversized designs.

Synergy with Pitti Uomo

Pitti Uomo is one of Italy's largest fashion trade fairs. Last June, it attracted a total of 15,000 industry professionals, including buyers from over 100 countries across five continents.

Kozuka's brand was selected for the 'Future Maschile' curation, one of the four curated sections of the event. 'Future Maschile' showcases works by designers exploring advanced menswear creation, many of which possess a unique structural beauty. In contrast to other brands that often feature simple, minimalist designs and colour palettes, Kozuka's fantastical designs are likely to stand out at the venue.

Key items

Contrary to the fantasy atmosphere of its fashion shows, the brand's individual products feature a range of functional, workwear-like items.

The brand's signature collection is a line of wide-leg trousers named 'Baggy', which features a variety of silhouettes. These stretchy, easy-to-move-in baggy trousers are priced from approximately 30,000 to 50,000 yen. The popular collaboration items with Dickies, such as jackets and trousers, are priced around 30,000 yen. The collaboration items with Tsuchiya Kaban, to be exhibited at Pitti Uomo, range from 80,000 to 130,000 yen.

Some outerwear and tops feature the brand's unique sizing system. The size 'Her' represents a slightly smaller fit, as if worn by a girlfriend. 'My' is a standard men's size, and 'His' signifies a larger fit, like a girlfriend wearing her boyfriend's clothes.

Items can be ordered internationally from the official online shop or from sites such as Ebay and Grailed. In Japan, products are available at the flagship store in Omotesando and at the select shop Studious. Furthermore, Hankyu Men's Tokyo Garage D. Edit, which showcases a diverse range of domestic and international menswear brands, has a dedicated booth for Shinyakozuka. The shop design allows customers to enjoy a shopping experience immersed in the brand's fantasy world.