SPFW N60 celebrates 30 years by championing Brazilian identity

On October 20, the 30th anniversary edition of São Paulo Fashion Week (SPFW) concluded with the Lino Villaventura show at the Pavilhão das Culturas Brasileiras in Ibirapuera Park, São Paulo. The venue, nicknamed PACUBRA, shared the spotlight with the Iguatemi Shopping theatre and several historic locations. These included the Mário de Andrade Library, where João Pimenta presented his collection; the Julio Prestes Station, which hosted Glória Coelho; and the Museum of the Portuguese Language, the setting for Ronaldo Fraga's show. Trianon Park on Paulista Avenue hosted Flávia Aranha's collection. Campo de Marte was the stage for the Forca Studio show. The Museum of Contemporary Art at the University of São Paulo was the venue for Gustavo Silvestre, and the Competition gym hosted Uó by Marcelo SommeR. Angela Brito presented her show at the Centro Cultural São Paulo.

This edition's collections demonstrated technical refinement. They definitively incorporated regional handicrafts used creatively to evoke Brazilian culture. In the photos and text below, FashionUnited highlights the key moments.

Fabric and print composition

The catwalk featured cut-outs in different fabrics and denim with various washes. Leather with inserts of different shades was also prominent. There was even a combination of several second-hand pieces forming new outfits, where the focus was on repurposing.

Crochet

Forgotten in past decades, crochet has not only been revived but has gained prominence. It appeared in complete looks or as subtle details. Combined with embroidery or used as a supporting element, it was always presented luxuriously. This was especially true when paired with bugle beads, beads and pieces made from a wide variety of materials.

Strips, rouleaux, yo-yos and patchwork

What was once just a detail has become a fundamental element. Loose strips offered different textures; rouleaux formed the shape of a jumpsuit; and giant yo-yos were joined together to create a dress. Everything is possible in this universe, including the combination of denim squares to form a complete look. For eveningwear, gathered fabrics created unusual volumes.

Lace and macramé

Regional lace appeared on garments, sometimes as a discreet detail and at other times more prominently. In some looks, it only detailed hems and borders, but it was present in almost every collection. Macramé featured in a few collections, usually in details.

Embroidery, ruching and appliqués

This season, embroidery was exuberant, appearing on brightly coloured jackets, with stones and even wood. Some designers worked with ruching and pleats. Appliqués of small flowers added lightness to more fluid shapes in lightweight fabrics and a different texture to leather. Brazilian stones appeared on the straps of beachwear pieces.

Tailoring

Precise tailoring appeared on the catwalks in wide, comfortable forms. It was colourful or exuberant, with feather appliqués combined with sparkle. At times, it was used functionally with zipped sections, allowing it to be transformed into another garment.

Orange takes centre stage

After several seasons where vibrant tones were dominated by red, orange has arrived in various shades. It was present in most collections, bringing its positive and sunny vibes. We have selected two total orange looks to illustrate this.