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Spotted on the catwalk: Pantone’s seasonal palette at New York Fashion Week

By Nora Veerman

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Fashion|In Pictures
Trend colours 'Viva Magenta' and 'Burnt Sienna' on the catwalk at Dion Lee and Heron Preston, during NYFW FW23. Image: Launchmetrics Spotlight

This week the American colour institute Pantone presented a trend report for New York Fashion Week FW23. In it, cheerful, bright colours, such as menthol green and magenta, prevailed. Pantone contrasted the popping palette with five other more muted, classic shades, including deep blue and creamy white.

Over the past few days, the first examples of hues in the Pantone palette already passed by during New York Fashion Week. FashionUnited has made an overview of the looks so far.

Ten cheerful colours: from popping magenta to crackling kohlrabi

One side of the Pantone colour selection consisted of red and rose shades. 'Tender Peach', a soft, light peach shade, was seen on the catwalks of Tory Burch and Collina Strada, among others.

Tory Burch and Collina Strada at New York Fashion Week FW23. Image: Launchmetrics Spotlight

The more prominent fuchsia hue 'Rose Violet' and 'Viva Magenta', which was named colour of the year by Pantone, have already been featured by several designers. Dion Lee presented several silhouettes in fuchsia, and Carolina Herrera created a brocade dress in which fuchsia and magenta were juxtaposed in a baroque pattern, with dazzling results.

Fuchsia and magenta at Dion Lee and Carolina Herrera during New York Fashion Week FW23. Image: Launchmetrics Spotlight

Another commonly seen colour was 'Red Orange'. Carolina Herrera showed a plain ensemble in this colour, and Ulla Johnson played with different shades and textures.

Red Orange at Carolina Herrera and Ulla Johnson during New York Fashion Week FW23. Image: Launchmetrics Spotlight

Ulla Johnson also made trousers and skirts in 'Red Dahlia', described by Pantone as an "imposing shade of red". US label Puppets and Puppets presented rib trousers in this colour.

Puppets and Puppets and Ulla Johnson during New York Fashion Week FW23. Image: Launchmetrics Spotlight

'High Visibility', a warm, joyful yellow, also proved popular. Carolina Herrera again went for plain, while Rodarte made a spectacular knitted dress that featured other shades of yellow besides 'High Visibility', each time in a different kind of yarn.

High Visibility at Carolina Herrera and Rodarte during New York Fashion Week FW23. Image: Launchmetrics Spotlight

Designer Palomo Spain used fashion colours such as 'Persian Jewel', menthol green 'Carnival Glass' and green 'Kohlrabi' in his collection, plain or in interwoven patterns. There was also the occasional hint of yellow.

Palomo Spain's FW23 collection, featuring fresh greens, yellows and blues. Image: Launchmetrics Spotlight

'Burnt Sienna', a powdery red earth tone, coloured Prabal Gurung's butterfly wing-like dress and a coat by Heron Preston.

Powdery red at Prabal Gurung and Heron Preston during New York Fashion Week FW23. Image: Launchmetrics Spotlight

Both Heron Preston and Tory Burch created trousers for fall 2023 in the colour 'Kohlrabi', which according to Pantone is a 'tasty green'. Tory Burch combined the bright green trousers with a jacket in one of the colours from the classic palette: 'Eclipse', a deep midnight blue.

Vegetable green at Heron Preston and Tory Burch during New York Fashion Week FW23. Image: Launchmetrics Spotlight

The classics: coconut milk and birch grey

Pantone's classic colour palette consists of five colours. Besides 'Eclipse', it also includes 'Coconut Milk', 'Doe', 'Hot Fudge' and 'Silver Birch', creamy white, deer brown, deep brown and a light silver grey, respectively. The deer brown, which leans towards a traditional camel colour, barely showed up on the catwalks. Instead, the most popular was 'Eclipse', which Eckhaus Latta and Proenza Schouler used for subtle glittery looks.

Deep blue glitter at Eckhaus Latta and Proenza Schouler during New York Fashion Week FW23. Image: Launchmetrics Spotlight

'Hot Fudge' also made several appearances. At Palomo Spain, it appeared in the form of a jacket decorated with glitter stones in other trending colours, and at Dion Lee in an ensemble of a leather bustier and thin, translucent skirt.

Palomo Spain and Dion Lee during New York Fashion Week FW23. Image: Launchmetrics Spotlight

Proenza Schouler and Elena Velez chose 'Coconut Milk' and 'Silver Birch' respectively, both for structured silhouettes with drawstrings at the waist.

Milky white and silver birch grey at Proenza Schouler and Elena Velez during New York Fashion Week FW23. Image: Launchmetrics Spotlight

This article originally appeared on FashionUnited.NL. Translation and edit by: Rachel Douglass.

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