Student designers put natural materials in the spotlight at London’s Material Matters fair

Seven emerging designers from around the world are presenting sustainable innovations at this year’s Material Matters Fair as winners of the Only Natural International Student Design Competition.

The contest challenges students to rethink the dominance of synthetics in fashion and design by working with renewable fibres such as wool, hemp, leather and wood. Organizers argue that students are well positioned to drive systemic change in response to fast fashion and disposable design culture.

This year’s winners represent the UK, Ireland, Sweden, Israel, India, Japan and New Zealand. Projects range from seaweed-based footwear that disperses seeds while walking, to Japanese lacquer fused with mycelium, leather-knit womenswear, cow horn jewellery, and furniture crafted without metal components. Each project combines technical skill with an emphasis on regenerative design.

Design writer and judge Grant Gibson described the shift in approach as “far beyond replacing synthetics with natural alternatives,” noting that students are beginning to “reimagine processes around regenerative principles.”

The competition attracted nearly 350 entries in its second year, more than doubling participation from 2024. The winners’ work is on display at Material Matters (17–20 September) during London Design Festival, where over 6,000 visitors, including architects, designers and educators, are expected.

Supported by global natural fibre trade bodies, Only Natural highlights how emerging talent can help shape a more sustainable industry. For fashion educators, the competition offers examples of how natural materials can be reinterpreted for contemporary use, providing teaching opportunities that connect innovation with environmental responsibility.