Study: design choices can significantly reduce fibre shedding from jeans during washing
The way jeans are processed in the factory largely determines their environmental impact when washed by the consumer. New research, shared by The Microfibre Consortium (TMC) on LinkedIn, shows that combining mercerised yarn (treated cotton) with specific washes can reduce fibre shedding by 77 to 93 percent per wash cycle.
The processes for two popular finishes proved most problematic. These were stone washed, popular for the faded look it gives jeans, and towel washed, where jeans are washed with bleached towels for a speckled effect. The friction in these processes damages the fabric, causing a high level of fibre shedding even after five washes by the consumer.
This effect was significantly less pronounced with more intensive bleach washes (heavy bleach) and ice washes, which are treated with pumice stone for a ‘frozen’ effect, turning the blue dye of the jeans white. These treatments make the fabric smoother, which slows down further fibre degradation during washing.
The study highlights the importance of design choices in making the denim industry more sustainable. However, these are preliminary conclusions and not yet sufficient for brands to base their strategies on. A heavy chemical wash may be beneficial for fibre retention, yet it could perform poorly in other areas, such as causing water pollution during production. TMC is therefore urging brands to find a balance between a clean production process and a more sustainable use phase.
The study ‘Evaluation of microfiber emissions from treated denim fabrics in domestic laundry: Exploring low-emission treatments’ was published in the Journal of Environmental Chemical Engineering.
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