Trendstop New York Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2023-24

Trendstop brings FashionUnited readers a look at the highlights from the Fall/Winter 2023-24 edition of New York Fashion Week.

New York Fashion Week followed Copenhagen’s sustainable example with a myriad of conscious co-ed collections. Putting their eco philosophies into action designers experimented with found objects, reusing waste materials and creative upcycling. Everyday utilitarianism and crafting were imbued with a human touch, merging with inspirations from the natural world.

Heron Preston

Presenting in New York City for the first time, Heron Preston’s “Anything Goes” show was all about upcycling. The collection experimented with found objects and technology, and the idea of repair to extend a garment's lifespan. The philosophy behind it described as “Less Environmentally Destructive” (L.E.D.). Looks included chainmail dresses from scraps found in the city. Preston’s signature streetwear and utilitarian codes came in the form of oversized workwear jackets, distressed denim and construction vests whilst sport was also represented with a debut skiwear line featuring water sneakers, fur boots and thermals.

Gabriela Hearst

Gabriela Hearst’s latest collection once again utilised the skills of women's collective Manos del Uruguay, a non-profit organisation that provides work to artisan women in rural areas of the country. Inspired by Eileen Gray, one of the pioneering modernist designers in the 1920s, and the minimalist austerity of Gray's home, Hearst showed paired-back, elegant looks including menswear-inspired tailoring and outerwear in a simple, neutral palette. Recycled cashmere pieces were indicative of Hearst’s commitment to circularity whilst nappa leather was crafted into statement pieces including an artisanal interwoven coat.

Private Policy

In a collection titled “We Are All Animals,” genderless brand Private Policy explored the relationship between animals and humans. Animals were represented abstractly and literally, with figures printed on t-shirts and a model wearing animal ears. in keeping with the natural theme, upcycled looks included patchwork denim retrieved from clothing donations, and black and white faux fur. The brand also showed seasonless denim streetwear throughout the collection and eco-friendly textiles were turned into distressed knits and torn fabrics, expressing the beauty of nature’s imperfections.

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