Upcycling lace: Using antique fabrics for unique fashion pieces

Paris - Lace is once again prominent in fashion, lending a sense of craftsmanship and delicacy to collections. This traditional fabric is now even being recycled to create unique pieces, worn by stars such as Beyoncé and Rosalía.

The resurgence of lace is a key trend this year, as predicted by Pinterest Business based on millions of user searches. It is also reflected on the catwalks, from the elegant designs of Saint Laurent to the romantic looks of Alexander McQueen.

This delicate fabric is seen as a way to elevate fashion, adding a touch of luxury.

“This reappearance of lace is also related to the general mood in fashion. In a context of financial difficulties within the luxury sector, houses and brands now want to emphasise the quality of the garment,” Pierre Groppo, editor-in-chief of fashion and lifestyle at Vanity Fair France, told AFP.

“Lace immediately conveys a sense of savoir-faire, preciousness, and a haute couture dimension that gives the piece an intrinsic identity and value,” he adds.

In his opinion, “incorporating a sense of artisanal craftsmanship creates emotion, which is something fashion needs at the moment”.

Fabrics from past centuries

At the Parisian workshop of Les Fleurs Studio, lace features in almost every creation. The studio works with antique remnants and reclaimed pieces.

“We create unique pieces because we use fabrics from the 18th, 19th and 20th centuries,” explains Spanish founder María Bernad, who established the brand in 2019. She is surrounded by shelves filled with all kinds of antique lace.

While this romantic, lace-adorned style is on-trend, their method of upcycling is still quite niche.

“It is a niche; not many people work with such old fabrics,” says Bernad from her small Parisian workshop, which is located in an incubator for sustainable fashion brands.

Her garments are hand-sewn “puzzles” composed of lingerie remnants, some over a century old. The designer sources them mainly from markets or private sales.

“Trends have changed significantly in recent years. Now, there is a focus on being unique and owning one-of-a-kind pieces,” the designer states. She shows a beige wedding dress with a long skirt and an open back, crafted from several reclaimed pieces.

Fragility

For Pierre Groppo, this transparent, filigree-like fabric also represents “the image of a kind of femininity that transcends the ages”.

In his opinion, lace is a fabric that “everyone can make their own”. It can be worn in a classic style or in a more provocative way, as seen on US star Kim Kardashian in a transparent black Balenciaga ensemble.

Les Fleurs Studio also counts celebrities among its clientele. US singer Beyoncé wore a crochet minidress with a matching headpiece in 2024. Spanish singer Rosalía wore a 1940s lace cape during her recent concerts in France.

The majority of its orders are now for wedding and occasion dresses. Production time ranges from two weeks to two months, with prices between 2,000 and 12,000 euros for the most complex creations, explains Bernad, who is obsessed with everything that has “a past life”.

For her, it is less about fashion and more about “bringing things back from the past and being able to work with them” to create unique, sustainable pieces.

Lace is something “a little more fragile, more delicate” in this seemingly harsh world, states Groppo. “In such a complicated and tough era, perhaps a touch of fragility is the new luxury”.