Venice Film Festival: A preview of autumn fashion trends

Venice - Julia Roberts in a Versace gown and Alba Rohrwacher in a Victorian-inspired Dior dress. The red carpet at the 82nd Venice Film Festival offered a glimpse into the autumn fashion season, marked by the arrival of new creative directors.

For her first time at the Lido, the "Pretty Woman" star delighted photographers in a long, navy blue Versace gown with long sleeves, a train, and a subtle check pattern. It was a silhouette playing on contrasting effects, designed by Dario Vitale.

The Italian, in his forties, took over from Donatella Versace in April. Versace was catapulted to the head of design in 1997 after the murder of her brother, Gianni, the brand's founder.

Having worked at Miu Miu, Prada's younger brand, where he boosted sales, Vitale embodies this new generation expected to revitalise the fashion world and a luxury sector in crisis.

One of the most prominent representatives of this new wave is Jonathan Anderson, in charge of Dior's men's, women's and haute couture collections. This is unprecedented since Christian Dior himself.

A film enthusiast, Anderson regularly collaborates with Luca Guadagnino and designed the costumes for his film "Queer", presented at last year's Venice Film Festival. It was no surprise, then, that the director wore Dior at a press conference in Venice, sporting a T-shirt ironically inscribed "No Dior, No Dietrich", in reference to the 1930s star, Marlene Dietrich.

On the red carpet, it was the midnight blue dress, reminiscent of crinolines, worn by actress Alba Rohrwacher ("My Brilliant Friend") that caught the attention of photographers. According to Vogue Italia, this long-sleeved dress, the result of 126 hours of work, is Anderson's first haute couture creation.

Until now, the Northern Irish designer had only unveiled a men's collection at the end of June, featuring capes, tailcoats and waistcoats.

His first Dior women's show, scheduled for early October, will be a major event, as will Matthieu Blazy's first show at Chanel.

At the Venice Film Festival, fashion will also be in the spotlight on Monday with "Marc by Sofia" (out of competition), Sofia Coppola's first documentary, about her friend Marc Jacobs.

Jacobs, who was the "cool kid" of fashion in the 1990s, was the artistic director of Vuitton from 1997 to 2013, becoming one of the most famous designers of his generation.

At 62, the New Yorker is still at the helm of his eponymous brand, which is part of the LVMH group.

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