What 'thinking sustainably' means at Lagos Fashion Week

Lagos - Four days before the Éki kéré show at Lagos Fashion Week, sewing machines were still whirring in the workshop of this popular Nigerian brand. The studio is located in the heart of the cultural and economic capital of Africa's most populous country.

On that day, brand founder Abasiekeme Ukanireh gathered models and seamstresses for the final fittings. This was in preparation for the flagship event in African fashion, which ran from Wednesday to Sunday evening.

“Every year, as a designer, I always try to push the boundaries a little further in terms of sustainability,” Ukanireh, 35, explained to AFP. In 2025, she noted a greater emphasis on using indigo, as well as a dye made from “kola nuts”.

Her brand, launched in 2020, is known for using raffia and buttons made from nut shells in its designs. During her show on Sunday, around 30 models walked in outfits inspired by traditional wedding ceremonies in Ikot Ekpene. Nicknamed “the raffia city,” it is located in the southeastern state of Akwa Ibom, where the designer is from. The usual lace was replaced with raffia, cardboard and linen.

Encouraging designers

Abasiekeme Ukanireh stated that Lagos Fashion Week encourages young designers “to think sustainably.” She added, “they know that to succeed, or even just to take part, they have to adopt a responsible approach”.

Omoyemi Akerele founded this major event for fashion enthusiasts in 2011. In 2018, she set up an incubator programme called “Green Access.” The programme scouts, trains and supports young African designers, providing them with the tools to develop sustainable collections.

“Even if sustainability is at the heart of their design practice, it's about encouraging them to be more responsible. This involves rethinking their choices at every stage of the creative process and understanding that it starts with the materials,” Akerele explained to AFP.

With Lagos Fashion Week, she wants to show that “African creativity has its place on the world stage.” She also believes it is “a catalyst for cultural pride and sustainable systemic change”.

The founder of Lagos Fashion Week encourages not only designers to adopt sustainable fashion but also consumers. This is notably through her Swapshop initiative, which allows people to exchange clothes they no longer wear for other items.

“We all have clothes at home that we no longer wear. It's great to be able to swap them with people as stylish as those who attend this type of event,” enthused Danielle Chukwuma. Chukwuma is a 43-year-old retailer who came to see several shows at the Federal Palace Hotel in Lagos.

Overconsumption

She discovered the creations of Nigerian designers, as well as talents from other African countries. One such talent was the Indo-Kenyan designer Ria Ana Sejpa of the brand Lilabare, who took part in Lagos Fashion Week for the third time.

“I think Lagos is the fashion capital of Africa. Fashion is part of the culture here. People are proud of their style; they like to stand out and are not afraid to be bold or glamorous,” the 34-year-old told AFP.

During her show, she presented 25 outfits in shades of beige, white, brown, orange and green. They were created from pineapple and banana fibres, as well as coffee grounds.

“It is essential to consider our ecosystem, the assets of the environment and the people around you. You must also make conscious decisions at every stage of the creation process,” said Ria Ana Sejpa.

This view is shared by Nigerian designer Florentina Hertunba, 31, founder of the Hertunba brand, which is making its mark on her country's fashion scene.

She claims to use traditional Nigerian fabrics, such as Aso Oke and Akweté, as well as other local products. She also uses biodegradable packaging and limits waste.

“This piece is recycled. An old fabric was turned into yarn and then reused to create it,” explained the young woman, pointing to a patterned black dress in her Lagos workshop.

For her, sustainable fashion can only become mainstream if consumers follow suit.

“One of the biggest dangers is this culture of overconsumption, where people are constantly buying new clothes for every occasion. Sustainable fashion is making positive progress, but so is overconsumption,” she worried.

The global rise of fast fashion is generating a growing amount of textile waste. According to the United Nations, 92 million tonnes of textile waste are produced each year. Africa receives millions of tonnes of this waste annually, which ends up being burned in open landfills.

The fashion industry contributes to 10 percent of global greenhouse gas emissions.