Optimism at Mare di Moda despite challenges in the industry

After three days dedicated to swimwear, lingerie, and activewear, the 22nd edition of MarediModa concluded yesterday at the iconic Palais des Festivals in Cannes. The event reaffirmed its status as a key meeting point for industry professionals, showcasing the sector's resilience and dynamism while offering optimistic signs for the future.

Often referred to as “a must-attend event for those operating in this segment,” the fair successfully maintained its relevance despite challenges posed by global economic uncertainty and a slight decline in visitor numbers, which organizers attributed to smaller buyer delegations.

Throughout Mare di Moda’s halls—quiet on Tuesday, busier on Wednesday, and still buzzing with conversations late into Thursday—the most spoken languages were French, Italian, and Spanish. Exhibitors also highlighted the presence of German and English buyers, though they missed the absence of more clients from Latin America and Asia, who had partiticipated in previous editions.

Quality over quantity

The fair, although less busy than previous editions, left a positive impression on exhibitors. While many noted fewer visitors compared to previous editions, they highlighted their "high quality".

“It’s true the fair feels quieter, but you leave with a good impression because those who attended were here to do business,” shared representatives from Espunto, a textile company based in Alicante, Spain.

However, the true impact of their participation won’t be evident for several months, as orders are typically finalized later, once brands shift their full focus to Spring/Summer 2026 collections. For now, the spotlight remains on the development of Spring/Summer 2025 collections.

Additionally, some brands are also working on intermediate collections, such as Resort or Cruise lines, which are typically presented in May and cater to end-of-year vacations in warm destinations.

Despite the positive feedback, exhibitors agreed that the fair is held later than they would prefer. This timing has prompted some companies, particularly Spanish ones, to explore alternatives like the emerging Swimwear Barcelona fair, which takes place a month earlier. This event is also more practical for many businesses, as a significant number are based in Catalonia, one of Spain’s key textile hubs.

Spanish designer Dolores Cortés, a specialist in swimwear fashion, was among the attendees. Her creations are regularly featured at events such as Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week and the specialized Gran Canaria Swim Week. After attending David Shah’s trend seminar, she shared her thoughts on how this event is vital for fueling her creative process and maintaining a competitive edge in an increasingly demanding market.

She explained that her team attends the fair annually not only to strengthen relationships with key suppliers but also to identify finishes, techniques, and materials to integrate into their creative workflow.

Customization and versatility as solutions

The event brought together key players from across the garment production industry, including experts in lycra, fabric development, dyeing, detailing, and closures, all of whom are still feeling the effects of the pandemic. The drop in vacation tourism significantly reduced demand for swimwear and lingerie. Although there has been a growing preference for sportier designs, this shift hasn’t been enough to fully compensate for the decline.

This reality aligns with a key idea presented by David Shah: it’s time to rethink swimwear, lingerie, and activewear to make them more versatile and suitable for everyday use. With sunny, 25-degree weather in Cannes this November, the concept seemed particularly relevant. Personally, I would have appreciated wearing a swimsuit under my blazer to end the day with a swim in the French Riviera.

Emerging trends highlight a growing demand for personalized products. Clients are seeking differentiation through pattern modifications, color variations, or exclusive details.

In terms of finishes, gold remains a favorite, accompanied by natural shell embellishments. Nude tones and traditional finishes like tortoiseshell have also gained traction at the stands, suggesting consumers may seek to balance bold statement pieces with more understated items that endure in their wardrobes for years without becoming dated in their vacation photo albums.

Sustainability remains on the agenda

The high temperatures also underscored the urgency of advancing toward a more sustainable fashion industry, a central topic in the event’s seminars.

The Lycra Company has been developing an innovative technology that uses corn as a raw material to produce elastic fibers. Alistair Williamson, Vice President of EMEA and South Asia, emphasized that this approach aims to reduce the use of non-renewable resources, extend garment lifespans, and facilitate recycling at the end of their lifecycle.

The key to this innovation lies in collaboration with QORE, a US-based company that employs industrial corn grown under regenerative practices to produce a vital component in the process. This strategy not only decreases reliance on fossil fuels but also promotes responsible agricultural practices.

“There’s a gap between what’s promised and what’s actually implemented in the industry,” noted Janne Baetsen during another talk in the event area. The expert discussed the industry’s evolution and stressed the importance of building a fashion sector that not only innovates but also views change as a continuous and challenging process requiring openness, self-criticism, and collaboration.

Baetsen highlighted that true transformation demands not only plans and roadmaps but also an integrative approach that incorporates cultural, social, and human elements into the process. Her seminar also explored the adoption of artificial intelligence in fashion creation and the dilemmas it presents.

Honoring legacy and emerging talent

In addition to awards honoring established brands, the event once again hosted The Link competition, which recognizes emerging design students in the categories of swimwear, activewear, and lingerie.

In the 2024 edition, Matilde Balduzzi from Italy, a student at Next Fashion School by Carla Secoli in Bologna, won the beachwear category. Nicolai Vulpe from Romania, a student at the University of Art and Design in Cluj-Napoca, was named best in activewear; and Marianna Luca, also from Italy, a student at Next Fashion School by Carla Secoli in Padua, stood out in the lingerie category.

The organizers shared their plans, stating: "Starting tomorrow, we'll begin preparations for the next edition. Before returning to Cannes, we'll be at Milano Unica in February, followed by Miami Swim Week in June."

FashionUnited has been invited to attend Mare di Moda.