BCEFW SS26 highlights: Emerging designers and regional talent

Held from September 1 to 7, the 16th edition of Budapest Central European Fashion Week (BCEFW) has strengthened its position as a key fashion hub in Europe. This year's event received support from the Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana (CNMI) and the Hungarian Fashion & Design Agency (HFDA), bringing together designers from Hungary, Serbia, the Czech Republic, Slovenia, Slovakia, and Ukraine.

“What made this season particularly exciting was the strong presence of young talent. Nearly 60 percent of the designers were emerging names,” said Zsófia Jakab, CEO of BCEFW and HFDA. “A key part of our strategy has been to establish bilateral partnerships with organizations such as the Czech Fashion Council, Mercedes-Benz Bucharest Fashion Week, Ljubljana Fashion Week, Slovak Fashion Council, Belgrade Fashion Week, and Ukrainian Fashion Week.”

From the very beginning, the Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana has been a strategic partner. Now, these collaborations “not only enrich Budapest’s program but also enable Hungarian designers to showcase their collections abroad — from Milan to Ljubljana — in an exchange system that significantly boosts their international visibility. Looking ahead, we plan to further expand this network and develop new partnerships in Asia and the Middle East,” she told FashionUnited.

In her words, Budapest Fashion Week aims to strengthen its position as a key fashion platform in the region, supporting young talent through the continuous involvement of universities and international opportunities for emerging designers, while also integrating more conscious and circular practices.

A Platform for Regional Talent

The week-long event featured a diverse program of runway shows and more than 50 parallel activities, including talks, exhibitions, and networking events. These activities were open to the public, aiming to connect with the local community. In a new partnership with Mercedes-Benz Bucharest Fashion Week, Romanian designer Medeea was also featured.

To further its goal of becoming a long-term fashion benchmark for Central and Eastern Europe, the event collaborated with Hungarian universities for the first time. The BCEFW serves as a crucial showcase for the region's creative ecosystem, offering a platform for both emerging and established brands. For developing brands, it provides visibility, while established ones use it to expand their network and re-enter markets they may have been absent from since the pandemic.

Nanushka: A Global Success Story

The Hungarian brand Nanushka stands as a prime example of a global brand built in Budapest. Known for its commercial appeal, commitment to sustainability, and use of innovative materials, Nanushka has successfully established an international presence with flagship stores in major cities like London, New York, and Shanghai.

The design duo behind Kata Szegedi are a perfect example of a new generation of designers who've evolved their independent brand, founded in 2009, toward a more conscious approach. They incorporate slow-fashion practices and use vintage materials, a move supported by mentoring programs from the Hungarian Fashion & Design Agency (HFDA) and the Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana (CNMI), which are designed to help designers expand internationally.

Nubu Studio, led by designer Judit Garam, showcased a collection defined by its ethereal and fluid aesthetic. The garments, which seemed to be designed to move with the dancers who modeled them, translated into versatile, commercial pieces that bring a touch of minimalist sophistication to everyday life. This unique approach has already garnered interest from key international markets, including the US, Japan, and Hong Kong.

The Re-see showroom solidified its role as a key element of the event, creating a direct dialogue between designers, the press, and buyers. The organisers' efforts to attract professionals from Asia reflect their belief that Hungary offers a unique and compelling proposal for this market. The participation of European countries, such as Greece, also confirmed that international interest in the event is expanding across the continent.

Role of academia

While established brands lend credibility to the Budapest Central European Fashion Week, it is the new generation of designers that hints at a fresh and exciting future for the region. For the first time, presentations from Budapest Metropolitan University (METU) and the Moholy-Nagy University of Art and Design (MOME) were officially included on the runway schedule.

Markus Hannah, a millinery student from one of the universities, noted to FashionUnited that although everyday Hungarian style can be discreet, young designers "think big" and aren't afraid to reinterpret traditional folk styles. Hannah admits that their biggest challenge is standing out in a crowded market. It's not enough to have a good idea, you have to know how to present it in a way that feels "new, fresh, a rarity."

Noémi Winkler emphasizes craftsmanship and cultural heritage as the key differentiators of Hungarian fashion.

Fascinated by weaving and technical experimentation, Winkler is pursuing her international career in Asia, completing her master's degree in Shanghai. She believes that local talent can achieve global visibility if their work is supported by a powerful and authentic narrative.

Petra Nagy, who specializes in footwear and DIY culture, offers a different perspective, noting that Hungarian fashion is influenced by economic factors. She states that because "luxury is not accessible to most," her generation finds creative outlets in secondhand clothing and personal expression.

Nagy's academic experience has led her to experiment with unexpected materials, like aluminium. Her long-term goal is to launch her own shoe brand after gaining professional experience at a large company.

Within the international group of emerging designers, the work of Lan Krebs, a Slovenian textile designer and recent master's graduate from the Swedish School of Textiles, was a standout.

Presenting a collective project with two other Slovenian designers, Krebs took the knitting technique to a new level, transforming material into sculptural structures that seemed to respond to the body's movement. The result was a collection of high visual impact, with pieces that were both futuristic and organic.