Harrods buyer: MFW was “confident and cohesive”

As Milan Fashion Week comes to a close for its autumn/winter 2026 season, Simon Longland, director of buying, fashion at Harrods, said the showcase was a “confident and cohesive” display, defined by strong collections from Bottega Veneta and Prada, as well as a “significant new chapter” at Fendi with Maria Grazia Chiuri’s debut.

“From the debut at Fendi to the continued evolution of Bottega Veneta, alongside consistently strong collections from Prada, Dolce & Gabbana, Brunello Cucinelli, Loro Piana and Etro, the season demonstrated a clear focus on product and purpose,” said Longland. “There is a noticeable shift away from excess towards substance, collections grounded in craftsmanship, wearability, and long-term value, which aligns closely with how our customer is choosing to invest today.”

Harrods buyer Simon Longland shares his favourite moments and trends from Milan Fashion Week

What were your favourite collections this season at MFW?

This season in Milan was defined by clarity and conviction. At Bottega Veneta, the emphasis was on materiality and movement. There was a tactility to the collection, paired with fluid silhouettes that felt both effortless and refined. What resonated strongly was the subtle expression of identity, an understated elegance rooted in both craft and culture.

Prada delivered one of the most intellectually compelling collections of the week. The exploration of layering, almost like a system of dressing, was executed with precision. Looks evolved progressively, reinforcing the idea of adaptability and longevity within a modern wardrobe.

What did you think of Maria Grazia Chiuri’s debut at Fendi and what were the standout pieces for Harrods?

It is compelling to see the Fendi men’s and women’s collections unified as a coherent whole under a single, unwavering vision. By committing to a disciplined palette of black and ivory, interrupted only by a singular red dress and utilitarian flashes of khaki, the house has successfully pivoted the focus towards the tactile mastery of texture, embellishment, and fabrication.

For Harrods, the standout opportunities are found in the lace, leather, and intricate embroidery across dresses and separates; these pieces perfectly capture the intersection of heritage craftsmanship and contemporary sophistication that our clients demand.

What was the best presentation concept?

Loro Piana presented one of the most refined and considered concepts of the week. Inspired by poetry and travel, the presentation created a calm, immersive environment that allowed guests to engage closely with the product. This sense of proximity, being able to truly see and feel the craftsmanship, was powerful. It reflected a quiet confidence, where the product itself remains the focus.

What key trends emerged from Milan?

A clear shift towards intelligent, enduring dressing defined the season. Layering was central, but approached with nuance, less about heavy winter dressing and more about modularity, allowing garments to transition across seasons.

The colour palette drew from natural landscapes, sand, stone, and earthy tones, offering a sense of calm and permanence. Red emerged as a precise accent colour, used sparingly but with impact.

We also saw a modern approach to lace and a continued focus on tailoring, structured, yet increasingly fluid in execution.