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In Pictures: Glenn Martens' debut at Maison Margiela unveiled

Martens debuts at the originally Belgian fashion house with a gothic tribute to the Low Countries.
By Susan Zijp

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Fashion|In Pictures
Maison Margiela AW25 Credits: Maison Margiela

Belgian fashion designer Glenn Martens made his debut as creative director of Maison Margiela in Paris on July 9. The Paris-based fashion house presented the Artisanal Collection 2025, filled with imagery from 16th and 17th century Flanders and the Netherlands. This was stated in Maison Margiela's press release.

The most striking looks featured dramatic draping and patchwork-like treatments of both dark and black fabrics such as leather, combined with colourful, glossy fabrics (silk). This eclectic use of materials creates optical illusions, as seen in painting techniques (trompe l’oeil), according to the press release.

The models wore face coverings – a classic Margiela element from the 1980s. Martin Margiela, founder of the Maison Margiela fashion brand, did this to focus attention on the craftsmanship and not on the wearer.

Glenn Martens honours Margiela’s heritage

Martens showcased strong examples of upcycling, something Margiela is known for. The creative team used recycled plastic, vintage leather and metal waste. The crystals made from deadstock, incorporated into collars and masks, were particularly striking.

Wet draping provided a veiled, sensual interpretation for some looks. Lace was used as an "extension of the skin," according to Maison Margiela's press release. In addition, the fashion house notes that some silhouettes reflect the gothic structures of towers from the Low Countries.

See the most remarkable looks below.

Look 1: Maison Margiela Artisanal 2025 Credits: Maison Margiela
Look 3: Maison Margiela Artisanal 2025 Credits: Maison Margiela
Look 4: A dress worn over a corset with deadstock crystals. Credits: Maison Margiela
Look 9: A dress made from old bronze Credits: Maison Margiela
Look 10: A dress with a draped, heart-shaped skirt made from gold fabric and woven with metallic threads Credits: Maison Margiela
Look 13: Corset with petticoat and tablier cut from leather trousers, hand-painted and decorated with gold leaf Credits: Maison Margiela
Look 14: Upcycled biker jackets layered in patchwork style Credits: Maison Margiela
Look 34: Sleeveless tulle dress with corset Credits: Maison Margiela
Look 36: A long-sleeved, collage-style dress covered with draped plastic Credits: Maison Margiela
Look 38: A long, sleeveless bustier dress with corset and skin-toned jersey Credits: Maison Margiela
Look 45: A long peignoir made from draped satin silk Credits: Maison Margiela
Look 49: The final look is a top worn over a skirt made of fluorescent green silk with the Tabi boot visible in leather as a transparent wedge sandal Credits: Maison Margiela
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Glenn Martens
Haute Couture
Haute Couture Week
Maison Margiela