Keel Labs unveils first seaweed-fiber collection with Outerknown

As the fashion industry continues to grapple with the environmental impact of both man-made and natural fibers, the need for next-gen, sustainable materials has never been higher. Synthetic materials like polyester and nylon, which account for two-thirds of the industry’s raw material usage, are made using fossil fuels and contribute to environmental pollution. At the same time, conventional natural fibers like cotton consume vast amounts of water and energy during production. In response to the rising demand for sustainable fibers, with the global eco-fiber market projected to reach 74.65 billion dollars by 2025, according to Grand View Research, companies like Keel Labs are working to develop biodegradable, resource-efficient yarns that remain commercially viable.

Formerly known as Algiknit, Keel Labs has released its first limited-edition garment with Californian-based brand Outerknown featuring its flagship product, Kelsun fiber. Marking a significant step in sustainable fiber production, Kelsun is a seaweed-based yarn with a significantly lower environmental footprint than conventional fibers. Coinciding with the launch of the Outerknown Blanket shirt, the first commercially available garment made with Kelsun, we spoke with Keel Labs co-founders Tessa Callaghan and Aleks Gosiewski to discuss the Kelsun fiber, their collaboration, and their vision for the future of the next-generation fibers.

The commercial launch of Kelsun fiber with Outerknown is a significant milestone for Keel Labs. Can you share a bit more about how the partnership with Outerknown came about?

"Outerknown was one of the brands that expressed an early interest in Keel Labs, and the relationship has grown over the years. With their ties to the ocean and responsible design, it was an obvious choice that we would partner with Kelsun’s first product launch."

Why did you choose the Blanket Shirt as the first product to feature Kelsun?

"We knew we wanted the first product made with Kelsun to be incorporated into one of Outerknown’s key products and be something that anyone could wear. The Blanket Shirt is a staple of Outerknown’s brand, and it really is universal. It’s a year-round piece that is gender-neutral, which speaks to our notion of the versatility, functionality, and longevity of a garment."

Kelsun Fibre is described as a "plug-and-play" replacement for conventional fibers. How did you make sure that Kelsun fiber would match or even surpass the performance and feel of traditional materials?

"Kelsun is referred to as a ‘plug and play’ solution because it fits into existing fiber and textile infrastructures. This is not so common in the next-gen material space, as many novel materials require new production equipment and facilities to scale. With Kelsun, we have eased the challenge for customers to adopt our fiber because the process is familiar. Through customer and partner feedback and benchmarks, Kelsun is ticking the boxes, all while we continue to expand Kelsun’s potential."

Outerknown is known for its strong commitment to sustainability. How did their sustainability ethos align with Keel Labs’ mission?

"As we launch Kelsun into the world, we prioritize working with brands that have deep commitments and values around sustainability. Outerknown has distinguished itself by doing the work to clean up supply chains, source better raw materials, and establish goals like 100 percent circularity in its products by 2030. They illustrate how brands can adopt change successfully. Taking things one step further, Outerknown has a story that connects to the ocean, resonating with our company’s pursuit to create ocean-derived raw materials."

In your opinion, what does this collaboration mean for the future of sustainable fashion?

"Outerknown is one of the early movers, pushing the industry forward. With this launch, we are proud of it being one of the first times a next-gen material in apparel has been brought to market with a hundred+ units at a price point similar to the brand’s other products. This collaboration showcases the potential for adopting innovative raw materials, and Kelsun is committed to driving that transformation forward."

Can you explain in simple terms the process behind developing Kelsun fiber, from sourcing seaweed to turning it into a commercially viable textile fiber?

"To make Kelsun, biopolymers are extracted from seaweed and serve as the basis for the fiber. We combine these biopolymers with our proprietary solution to create a solution. This solution then goes through process chemistry to begin linking the polymer chains, forming thousands of fine filaments that are extruded and go through a traditional wet-spinning process. From there, we create staple fibers that are cut, blended, and spun into yarn. The yarn can then be knit or woven into a textile!"

What were some of the biggest challenges you faced in scaling Kelsun fiber from a concept to a commercially available product, and how did you overcome them?

"There is a reason that so few solutions exist today in the next-generation materials space; it is certainly a challenge, and we have faced many. At first, our biggest hurdle was overcoming the technical challenges of creating a fiber that performed to the strength, durability, and nuanced hand feels required by apparel and functional textile products. This took time and a well-tailored team of dedicated experts to study, test, and develop our technology. A challenge that we are working through today is aligning timing and resources across the supply chain. This requires simultaneous buy-in not just from brands but also from their suppliers and mills. We work diligently to ensure every relationship we build is aligned toward the same end goal and that we are able to provide resources to continue to collaborate at all points."

Kelsun fiber is touted as having a significantly lower environmental footprint than conventional fibers. What specific aspects of its production and lifecycle contribute to its sustainability, and how does it compare to other "green" materials currently on the market?

"Kelsun was created to combat the negative impacts associated with traditional textiles. Because we source our raw materials from the ocean, Kelsun reduces the reliance on water, soil, and pesticides associated with the growth of other naturally derived fibers. Additionally, Kelsun is composed of solely biobased content, never containing petrochemicals, making them safer for workers throughout production and for the end consumer wearing them. The result is a biodegradable textile solution that is designed to leave no harmful trace at any point of its life."

What impact do you hope Kelsun fiber will have on the broader textile industry, especially in terms of reducing reliance on resource-intensive materials like conventional cotton?

"Foundationally, since we start our process with seaweed, we do not use soil, land, or freshwater to grow the raw material. Unlike other conventional materials, we also do not use pesticides or fertilizers."

Keel Labs started as a response to the issue of textile waste in fashion. Now that Kelsun fiber is entering the market, how do you foresee its role in addressing some of the most pressing environmental challenges faced by the fashion industry today?

"Our hope is that by Kelsun entering the market, it will cause brands to rethink what they know about textile science and the industry as a whole. We advocate for diversifying the raw materials used for fiber production to not solely rely on land-based agriculture and introduce more readily renewable ‘ingredients’, as well as reducing the use of petroleum-derived materials."

As Forbes 30 Under 30 members, both of you have been recognized for your innovative approach to combining science and design. How have your backgrounds in fashion design and economics influenced the development and vision of Keel Labs?

"With our backgrounds in the industry, we have a really clear understanding of how it works. We know the challenges that the industry has faced, and will continue facing, so we are here to solve for those and help brands accomplish change."

Keel Labs has undergone significant evolution since its beginnings as AlgiKnit. What have been the key turning points in this journey, and how has your mission evolved along the way?

Keel Labs has evolved since its inception in 2017, but its commitment to ocean-based technologies has remained unchanged. A pivotal moment of change for the company was moving its HQ to North Carolina; where we moved from our small lab space in NY to our office/manufacturing facility in NC and scaled up our team. We doubled in size in 2022 and ramped up our production significantly, putting us in a place ready for brands to adopt Kelsun. By October of 2023, Kelsun debuted on the runway at Paris Fashion Week with Stella McCartney, an awe-striking moment for us!"

Looking ahead, how do you plan to expand the use of Kelsun fiber in the fashion industry?

"We are working to integrate Kelsun into mills around the world as a fiber option for any brand that produces textiles or garments there, making it easy for brands to make that switch to a more sustainable material. Given that Kelsun can take many forms, and has the potential to be used for many textile applications, we are also expanding outside of fashion, into industries like automotive, home interiors, and beauty."