LFW SS23: Susan Fang ‘Air Light’ collection

If there was an award for best spring/summer 2023 venue and concept, it would have to go to Susan Fang for her debut catwalk showcase during London Fashion Week. The Central Saint Martins graduate, who was shortlisted for the LVMH Prize, presented her collection at the Marshall Street swimming pool, which dates back to the 1930s. Where models walked on floating pontoons, surrounded by giant inflated ‘peace bubbles’ printed with abstract marble-like patterns drawn by the designer’s mother.

The collection, entitled ‘Air Light,’ explores the variables of peace and love and builds on Wang’s traditional craftsmanship, including her skilful use of gauze. This season, she prints and dyes the material before cutting the painted fabric into pieces of different widths and folds them by hand into multi-layered, three-dimensional "air prints". The 3D prints are then arranged either horizontally or in ripples to create beautiful rainbow-coloured skirts and dresses.

The psychedelic marble prints were also worked into light and voluminous “air-flowers,” which are made by stitching together fabrics printed with measured hand tacks using only strips and avoiding cut-offs. While pleats on the dresses, either using asymmetrical diagonal seams or symmetrical ones, brought added movement to the pieces.

The light and airy collection also included elegant glass-like jewellery and bags, as well as beaded-encrusted Crocs and sandals.