MFW continues to be “one of the most influential menswear capitals”

Milan Fashion Week’s menswear spring/summer 2027 season delivered “a compelling vision of how men want to dress today,” according to Simon Longland, director of buying, fashion at Harrods.

While the menswear season in Milan was marked by low brand participation, with Italian heavyweights like Gucci and Fendi choosing to sit this season out, the event still attracted showcases from Prada, Dolce & Gabbana, and Giorgio Armani, with Ralph Lauren also returning for a second season, and New York-based Thom Browne made his Milan debut.

For Longland, Milan remains “one of the most influential menswear capitals in the world,” for “balancing fashion-forward creativity with timeless elegance” with collections offering “lightness, ease and relaxed sophistication,” in contrast to the extreme hot weather that guests, models and designers had to endure.

Harrods buyer Simon Longland shares his favourite moments and trends from Milan Fashion Week SS27 menswear

What were your favourite collections this season?

Ralph Lauren, Dolce & Gabbana, Brioni and Brunello Cucinelli were among the highlights of the week, each demonstrating a distinct yet highly confident vision of contemporary menswear.

Ralph Lauren delivered effortless sophistication, Dolce & Gabbana brought energy and personality, while Brioni and Brunello Cucinelli continued to set the benchmark for understated luxury.

Thom Browne’s first show in Milan demonstrated his commitment to sartorial codes while simultaneously pushing the boundaries of fashion and menswear. The result was a collection that perfectly bridged these two distinct worlds, bringing a fresh and compelling perspective to the city’s menswear calendar.

Outside the runway calendar, Zegna’s showroom presentation, showcasing the collection first unveiled in Los Angeles, was a masterclass in refined modern menswear and exceptional craftsmanship.

What was the best presentation concept?

Ralph Lauren’s presentation at its Milanese Art Deco villa was particularly memorable. The setting felt intimate, elevated and deeply personal, creating a natural connection between guests and the collection.

Prada also delivered one of the season’s most striking show environments, with its suspended glass floor creating a powerful visual statement while perfectly complementing the collection itself.

Were there any key trends or style directions that stood out to you?

Milan continues to tell a story of two distinct approaches to menswear. On one side are the stronger fashion statements delivered by brands such as Prada and Dolce & Gabbana; on the other, the timeless and understated elegance of houses like Brunello Cucinelli and Brioni.

Across both approaches, however, several themes emerged. Matching sets have firmly established themselves as the modern alternative to traditional suiting, appearing in everything from shirts and overshirts to bombers paired with coordinated trousers or shorts.

Natural fabrics such as linen, silk, cotton and seersucker were dominant throughout the week, reflecting a broader desire for comfort and ease. Colour palettes remained grounded and sophisticated, with shades of rust, brick and terracotta particularly prevalent, while collarless jackets and shirts introduced a cleaner, softer silhouette.

Was there a must-have item for you this season?

If there was one item that encapsulated the mood of Milan, it would be a perfectly tailored matching set in a natural fabric. Whether in linen, silk or lightweight cotton, it offers the versatility, comfort and effortless elegance that increasingly define modern luxury menswear.