Mytheresa's chief buyer: "Demand for individuality is rising"

Fashion Weeks in the major fashion capitals concluded a few weeks ago, giving the industry time to process a surprisingly quiet season. In conversation with FashionUnited, Tiffany Hsu, chief buying officer at Mytheresa, reflects on the autumn/winter 2026 season. She explains which trends, collections and runway moments are particularly relevant for Mytheresa.

She also offers insights into how these developments are shaping buying strategy and the balance between brand loyalty, designer influence and data-driven decisions.

The autumn/winter 26 season follows years of numerous premieres and changes, yet it leaves a quiet impression. How do you assess this phase in the fashion discourse?

It was a very interesting season; each city had its own flair. London felt more evolutionary, a collective step towards craftsmanship, clarity and long-term relevance. Milan, on the other hand, marked a new chapter with an atmosphere of recalibration rather than disruptive change.

New York showed a clear shift towards seriousness and sophistication, accompanied by almost meditative, creative imagery. Paris, in turn, felt very energetic and romantic, conveying a renewed sense of femininity.

Which collections or runway moments from the season were particularly memorable and significant for you?

Prada's presentation concept was a highlight! The simplicity of the concept gave it enormous power, making Prada one of the most talked-about brands of the season once again.

My favourite collection was Bottega Veneta under Louise Trotter, which impressed with an architectural approach, merging femininity with brutalism to create a desirable collection. Another of my favourites remains Saint Laurent, which presented a vision of modern elegance, combining restraint with the brand's identity. Of course, one must not forget the Chanel bags and Maria Grazia Chiuri's reinterpretation of the Fendi Baguette!

Which of the season's trends are genuinely wearable and relevant for Mytheresa, and which will remain purely runway statements?

Gothic romance, seen in many collections, will endure, as will precise tailoring and statement outerwear. The sharper silhouettes lend a sophisticated ease to the wardrobe, making it look relaxed yet elegant. I saw a lot of statement outerwear with added texture or in strong silhouettes.

One trend that I believe will not last is utility. The trend feels a bit tired as silhouettes become more refined and proportions evolve. It therefore seems less relevant and will not have long-term significance.

How do you perceive the shift from bold, spectacular statements to more functional and subtle fashion, especially in the luxury segment?

There is a definite move towards a more understated look, with a focus on well-tailored garments and texture. Calvin Klein Collection returned to the runway last year with its clean, polished aesthetic, and Khaite is known for its refined silhouettes. Its collections continue to strike the perfect balance between clean tailoring and depth through texture.

People are now relying more on accessories to bring personality and individual accents to an otherwise minimalist look.

How would you describe the current mood and expectations of your customers?

There is a desire for pieces that allow our customers to inject personality into their outfits, whether through accessories, textures, proportions or unexpected details. The demand for individuality and standout pieces has grown and become more pronounced, while the overall look has become simpler and more refined.

While the runways are already focused on autumn/winter, summer is just around the corner. Which styles are currently in high demand?

The main trend this season is playing with proportions. We are seeing many structured shoulders and accentuated hip details that emphasise the hourglass silhouette. Dropped waists on summer dresses are also becoming increasingly popular. For trousers and skirts, micro-minis are making a strong comeback, whether in skirts or shorts.

Many houses have recently undergone creative leadership changes. Do Mytheresa customers remain loyal to a brand or to the individual creative director?

Both. Some customers are fans of specific designers and follow them from house to house, while others remain loyal to the brand, regardless of who is at the creative helm.

Which designers or brands are currently the focus of your buying decisions?

The narrative of Khaite really resonates with our customers. It combines simplicity and sensuality and is a true masterpiece of controlled self-assurance. Christen by Nina Christen is also an outstanding brand. Her shoes combine meticulous craftsmanship with modern, flattering silhouettes that are instantly desirable. She has an intuitive understanding of what contemporary women want to wear.

What is the focus for accessories?

For accessories, we are increasing our buy in shoes, as we have seen many elevated evening and occasion shoes this season. Together, these categories allow us to build a compelling, fashion-forward assortment for our customers.

How do you rate young talent compared to established houses for Mytheresa? Does risk-taking play a role, or is stability the current priority?

Although we are always scouting emerging talent, few brands are currently able to operate at the scale of our platform. We therefore introduce new names deliberately. We are still navigating the aftermath of last season's creative leadership changes, so this is always a matter of careful consideration.

Have budget allocations or buying strategies changed recently, and if so, where are you investing more and where are adjustments being made?

We are investing significantly more in ready-to-wear, as it is one of our key growth drivers. This is particularly true for elevated, statement pieces that anchor an outfit, such as cocktail and evening wear, as well as statement outerwear.

Our customers build their wardrobes purposefully and buy many ready-to-wear pieces. We are therefore focusing our buying on this and do not plan to deviate from it.

What role do data, digital engagement metrics, social media reactions and AI insights play in evaluating trends and customer interest, and how much do you rely on your personal intuition?

Knowledge of upcoming trends is an important factor in our decisions, but we also use past data to navigate the selection. We need to closely monitor what is happening in the market and what is being worn on the street, for which social media can of course be helpful.

Our great personal shopping team also supports us by passing on customer feedback, which is always very valuable.

You are also responsible for exclusive collaborations and capsule collections with certain brands at Mytheresa. How do these fit into the company's overall strategy?

When working on exclusive capsule collections, we naturally always have our customers in mind. We know our customers very well and understand what they like and want to buy. We are therefore happy to set certain parameters for the collection, while remaining true to the brand's DNA. Overall, we are heavily involved, but not in the design process itself.

This interview was conducted in writing.