No wash, no filter: Gen Z’s raw and real denim fix

A shift in the form of heritage, raw denim is re-emerging under the watch of a Gen-Z cohort that is guided by the thirst for directness, authenticity and self-expression.

Against the backdrop of current multi-crisis, younger, brand-agnostic generations are pushing against fast trend cycles and by-passing marketing ploys to considerately work out what’s worth preserving and investing in. Nostalgic, timeless and un-filtered looks are resonating - all the values raw denim has been delivering on since its workwear origin in the 50s and through the subculture-led renaissance in the 70s and 80s. The 2000s was the most recent cultural peak that saw raw denim with a solid, wide-reaching following, bolstered by the rise of raw denim brands, like APC, Iron Heart and Nudie Jeans, with sought after ‘Made in Japan’ and ‘Made in USA’ labels. The fast tracking athleisure and comfort-driven appeal of the mid-to-late 2000s left the first-wear, heritage denim to the niché, loyal community.

Until now. When the inherent qualities of break-in denim are perfectly aligning with the cultural sentiments of the Gen Z consumers. Joining denim heads and original enthusiasts, they are opting for material and silhouette honesty. Gen Z-led oversized, wide-legged shapes are driving growth. While recently there had been a big push to integrate comfort into denim - take for example Lenzing’s foray into the market with cellulosic EcoVero drape for lounge-friendly qualities, or the fast-tracking bio-based elastane developments like Lycra's FitSense, Gen Z’ appetite for over-sized stackable silhouettes call for structured and compact qualities. And the denim market is there to deliver with a wider range of robust fibres - a relatively recent uptake on linen and hemp blends are widening the cotton fabric basket for these solid, hardwearing qualities. Cottonized hemp - modified hemp fiber that can be spun in the same way as cotton, developed by the likes of Marmara Hemp, is alleviating the pressure of cotton reliance but delivers the reliable cotton handle. Even the earlier mentioned Lenzing Group have launched a new fibre - Tencel Lyocell HV100, developed to replicate the authentic look and texture of cotton denim.

Japanese denim immediately comes to mind when thinking of the inky dry-handle qualities. Although this is not where raw denim originated, it is in Japan that the craft of denim weaving was elevated into a luxury art form when Japanese manufacturers started importing American vintage shuttle looms while the U.S. moved towards automated, mass-production of synthetic blends in the 1970s. Today, denim brands like Taiga Takahashi and Kapital are creating a dialogue between the spirit of the American vintage workwear and Japan’s deep-rooted denim know-how to appeal to younger consumers with a sense of ‘realness’ through vintage-cut shuttle-loom qualities in limited runs. This type of scarcity and unwavering dedication to craft is a great draw for Gen Z consumers who revel in discovering ‘hidden gems’.

You can also tell a movement has real weight when luxury labels start catching on. Sightings of untreated structured denim looks on the recent S/S runway, from Givenchy to Jil Sander, could be read as an effort in ‘humanising’ luxury to court a younger audience who were raised on transparency and authenticity and have been struggling to see themselves reflected in these aspirational brands.

And it wouldn’t be Gen Z style not to push this direction further. The Naked and Famous denim brand is wholeheartedly tapping into the norm-subverting appeal but in an authentic way with the introduction of their ultra-heavy unsanforized 40oz selvedge denim. These super‑heavy jeans are not about mass comfort, they’re about making a non-mainstream statement via invested time and material craftsmanship effort. Something rare and extreme is a way of standing out.

Then there’s the appeal of anonymity and ownership in the original deep indigo washes - the idea of making jeans your own is drawing the Gen Z crowd into this space. Contrasting to the immediate gratification of worked into, over-processed fades, the next-gen taste-makers are seeing the investment value in a look that over time yields pay-off in a unique, personalised wear and lifestory-telling marks. Favoring process content, TikTok is fast becoming a platform for documenting raw denim challenges and sharing fading process updates.

Just as well. Low-processed, natural indigo dyes in unwashed finishes are sitting in line with the in-coming legislations and requirements like ZDHC’s Progressive Level wastewater set to phase out hazardous chemicals-reliant, over-processed finishes and encourage cleaner, minimal processing. Even high-street behemoths like Target are proactively reacting - their 2025 Sustainability and Governance report confirms the elimination of Potassium permanganate (PP) - a harmful chemical commonly used in denim white-wash effect.

While regulations support dry denim’s values, ultimately, it is innovation that is the clearest sign of what’s next, and it has always been the denim industry’s most authentic ‘stretch’. G-Star’s Anatomic Denim reinterprets iconic heritage qualities through ergonomically re-shaped cuts that offer comfort in transparent way without compromising on pure fibre blends, while Pure.Tech’s air-purifying technology - debuted in Stella McCartney's S/S 26 collection - pushes the boundary of denim. These developments might not seem to have much in common, but they are both integrating foresight-led utility into denim in an authentic way that doesn’t require over-hauling existing supply chains and integrating complicated new processes into existing manufacturing of dry denim. For Gen Z - a generation fluent in both sustainability and self-expression, this proves the future of raw denim can remain genuinely purposeful and progressive.