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Pantone responds to ‘Colour of the Year’ controversy

Pantone's Laurie Pressman addresses criticism regarding its 'Cloud Dancer' Colour of the Year, explaining its selection and defending white as a colour.
Fashion|Interview
Pantone ‘Cloud Dancer’ Credits: Pantone by The Development
By Danielle Wightman-Stone

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Since 2000, Pantone has selected an animated red, a periwinkle blue, a warm and soft brown hue, as well as a cosy peach, a rose quartz, a tranquil blue, an earthy wine red, and a radiant orchid, all selected to serve as an expression of a mood or attitude, but none has been as controversial as this year’s selection of ‘Cloud Dancer,’ a colour described as “a billowy, balanced white imbued with a feeling of serenity”.

Laurie Pressman, executive director of Pantone Color Institute, said in a statement: “We are living in a transitional time where people are seeking truth, possibility, and a new way of living.

“Pantone 11-4201 ‘Cloud Dancer’ is an airy white hue that exemplifies our search for balance between our digital future and our primal need for human connection, a liminal space that is a launchpad for creative expression, as individuals and communities are experimenting beyond traditional boundaries, opening the door to increased imagination and innovation.”

Pantone went on to add that the white hue was chosen as a “blank canvas” to signify “desire for a fresh start,” while also opening “the door to new approaches” as ‘Cloud Dancer’ allows all colours to shine.

“Cloud Dancer quiets the mind, encouraging true relaxation and focus that allows the mind to wander, and creativity to breathe, making room for innovation,” explains Pantone. “In a world where colour has become synonymous with personal expression, this is a shade that can adapt, harmonise, and create contrast, bringing a feeling of airy lightness to all product applications and environments, whether making a stand-alone statement or combined with other hues.”

Pantone ‘Cloud Dancer’ colour of the year met with criticism

Pantone ‘Cloud Dancer’ Credits: Pantone by The Development

However, while Pantone states the colour is calming and relaxing, the global colour authority has been met with a backlash, from colour enthusiasts stating that white isn’t a colour and a boring choice, to others labelling ‘Cloud Dancer’ everything from “dystopian” to tone-deaf, given the current political climate.

In response to the criticism, Pressman told FashionUnited in a statement over e-mail: “This year’s ‘Colour of the Year’ has appeared in many different conversations. We understand that people bring different feelings to its meaning; colour shifts depending on context and perspective. “Cloud Dancer is a colour about relaxation, reflection, and creativity.

“The Pantone Colour of the Year selection process is rooted in an understanding of humanity, drawing on close observation and global trend analysis to recognise what is emerging across the design landscape. It considers the moods a colour can evoke and the experiences it can shape in design. The global team at the Pantone Color Institute selected this colour for its emotional and creative resonance, not as a statement on politics, ideology, or race. Pantone does not assign political narratives to colour; to select or avoid a hue on that basis would give such narratives a significance they do not hold in this process.”

For many online, the colour choice was called “Pantonedeaf,” as the colour was accused of evoking white supremacy, given the current political discourse in many countries across the world, where right-wing politics has been on the rise, and diversity, equity, and inclusion measures have been cut. There was also speculation that the white hue signals wealth and elitism, while others drew comparisons to the American Eagle advert campaign in the summer with actress Sydney Sweeney that referenced “good genes,” which had critics stating that it had racist undertones.

Pressman added: “Cloud Dancer visually represents a space to create, like a blank page ready for you to turn your inspiration into reality. It gives us the ability to become receptive both to what can be and what’s ahead, as Cloud Dancer suggests, the inner peace we feel after clearing the noise around us. As a colour, it was chosen for its calming presence, its ability to inspire reflection, and its versatility across design. It offers an open foundation for creative exploration with colour.

“The name of the colour is a large part of the selection process, and the name ‘Cloud Dancer’ reflects a universally shared experience: wherever we are in the world, we all look up to the clouds for inspiration and wonder. In the simple act of looking up, we’re connected by the drifting lightness of clouds. That universality is a huge part of why ‘Cloud Dancer’ was selected as the Pantone Colour of the Year 2026.”

Pantone ‘Cloud Dancer’ Credits: Pantone by The Development

When it comes to whether white is a colour?

Pressman said: “It’s an interesting conversation to have, because we understand that white isn’t always the first thing people think of when they hear the word “colour”. Still, it plays an essential role in every colour spectrum, and especially in design. Every hue carries a psychological message, and white is no exception.

“Scientifically, the definition of white shifts depending on context. In light, as demonstrated by Sir Isaac Newton’s prism experiments, white contains all colours, every wavelength combined. In pigment, it’s often described as the absence of colour, but that’s simply terminology. For anyone who perceives colour, white is experienced as a presence with real visual impact.

“And in design, white has to be treated with the same intentionality as any other hue. When colour must live across digital and print environments, span different materials, and translate consistently, white needs to be specified. Its undertone, how it interacts with surfaces, and how it responds to light can dramatically change the experience.

“That’s exactly why we selected Cloud Dancer. It isn’t an optic white - it's a lofty white, carefully balanced with both warm and cool undertones. That balance gives it exceptional versatility, allowing it to harmonise with a full range of colours without leaning too creamy or too stark. Cloud Dancer was chosen as it works seamlessly with everything around it, offering a refined neutrality that feels intentional and adaptable.”

Pantone ‘Cloud Dancer’ Credits: Pantone by The Development

How to use ‘Cloud Dancer’ in fashion

When it comes to utilising ‘Cloud Dancer’ in apparel, Pantone adds that it is the “perfect anchor for monochromatic dressing,” as the “discrete white” has an understated presence. ‘Cloud Dancer’ can act as “a conscious statement of simplification,” whether worn in a classic button-down, T-shirt, or jeans, or in activewear and suiting.

The white colour also lends itself to various fabrications from down- and foam-filled cloth, to fluffy and hairy furs, to plush and lofty wools gently swaddle, as well as floaty chiffons and fluid jersey fabrics.

Cloud Dancer’s ability to mix effortlessly with every colour also makes it perfect for fashion accessories and footwear, as the hue infuses ensembles with a “quiet sophistication and comfortable elegance,” without overstimulation.

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