Pierpaolo and the 'humanity' of Balenciaga

Madrid – A focal point of the recent Paris Fashion Week, Spanish heritage house Balenciaga closed Saturday’s schedule with its AW26 menswear and womenswear showcase. The collections leaned heavily into the Renaissance and Baroque influences that once guided the brand's founder, Cristóbal Balenciaga.

Presented on 7 March, the show marked Pierpaolo Piccioli’s second womenswear and debut menswear collections since becoming creative director last October. Under the ownership of Kering, the brand is currently undergoing a strategic renewal similar to that of Loewe. Piccioli’s previous SS26 ‘The Heartbeat’ collection successfully revived the house's refined ‘chic’ aura, moving away from the gritty, urban street style that defined the era of his predecessor, Demna, who stepped down in March 2025 to lead the development of Kering’s flagship brand, Gucci.

In this second outing, Piccioli appears to be bridging the gap between heritage and modernity. While his debut felt like a sharp departure from the Demna years—highlighted by the somewhat jarring presence of Anne Hathaway in old-era Balenciaga—this AW26 collection integrates nuanced streetwear influences. Drawing from the High Renaissance technique of chiaroscuro, Piccioli explores the tension between light and shadow. This artistic concept, central to the Baroque style that influenced Cristóbal Balenciaga, serves as a metaphor for the dualities of the human condition.

Titled ‘Chiaroscuro’, the collection uses this play of light to define and outline volume. The house described the approach as an exploration of “dual extremes”, where darkness and light are interdependent. By treating light and shadow as defining elements of humanity, Piccioli creates a sophisticated narrative that moves beyond mere aesthetics.

Enveloping cuts and sculptural collars

The palette is anchored by the signature ‘Balenciaga black’, alongside deep earthy browns, maroons, and burgundies. These dark foundations are punctured by vibrant flashes of crimson, grass green, lavender, and fuchsia. This chromatic depth references the dramatic works of El Greco and Zurbarán, artists who were pivotal to the founder’s original vision.

The silhouettes offer postmodern reinterpretations of historic cuts—specifically the trapeze, sack, and cocoon dresses. Modernity is injected via strategic ‘cut-out’ details, echoing some of the shapes Demna has recently introduced at Gucci. Voluminous, sculptural collars and shell-like structures frame the face and body, honouring Cristóbal Balenciaga’s legacy of sculpting directly onto the form. Sensual, gossamer fabrics further highlight the movement and anatomy of the wearer.

“Amplifying Cristóbal Balenciaga’s focus on human morphology, the body becomes the internal structure of the garments,” the house stated. The design uses hoods and necklines to frame the face “like a portrait”, while footwear creates a “magically suspended” effect. Materials such as leather, cashmere, and silk were selected for their ability to absorb and reflect light, altering the perception of the garments.

Ultimately, this AW26 collection functions as a modern wardrobe that balances collective identity with individual expression. By merging historical techniques with a contemporary perspective, Piccioli has crafted a series of garments that speak to both the heritage of the house and the current needs of the luxury market.