Prada criticised in India over sandal design seen as appropriation

Prada has come under criticism in India after unveiling a sandal design during Milan Fashion Week that closely resembles the traditional Kolhapuri chappal, a handcrafted leather slipper with origins in 12th-century Maharashtra.

Images of the braided leather footwear sparked backlash from Indian artisans and lawmakers, who accused the brand of failing to credit the cultural heritage behind the design, reported Reuters.

The Indian Express newspaper addressed the issue head on: "What if something your grandfather wore, costing around 5 euros, appeared on an international luxury runway as a contemporary sandal priced at over 1,100 euros, with no mention of its original cultural source?

In a letter to the Maharashtra Chamber of Commerce, Prada’s head of corporate social responsibility, Lorenzo Bertelli, acknowledged the sandals were “inspired by traditional Indian handcrafted footwear” and said the design was still in development, according to Reuters. He added that Prada was open to further dialogue with local artisans.

A Prada spokesperson said the company “has always celebrated craftsmanship, heritage and design traditions.” While some Indian craftsmen expressed disappointment at the lack of credit, others welcomed the global exposure. “They are happy that someone is recognising their work,” said Kolhapur businessman Dileep More.

The episode highlights a broader tension in global fashion, as traditional crafts inspire luxury products sold at vastly higher prices.