Standing ovation for Jonathan Anderson's debut womenswear show for Dior

The Dior spring/summer 2026 show on Wednesday was one of the most anticipated of Paris Fashion Week. It marked the debut collection from Jonathan Anderson at the helm of the prestigious luxury house.

Those watching the show live on social media or on the brand's website could witness fittings with 070 Shake, Camille Cottin and Jennifer Lawrence. They were seen wearing pieces from the men's collection, including a striped shirt and tie.

Numerous celebrities gathered at the Jardin des Tuileries to attend the event, including Anya Taylor-Joy (a house ambassador), Rosamund Pike and Jenna Ortega. In the front row, Brigitte Macron was seated between Bernard and Delphine Arnault.

For the set, a gigantic inverted grey pyramid stood at the centre of the runway. The show began with a montage of archival footage from the house of Dior, spanning from the era of Christian Dior to Gianfranco Ferré and John Galliano. This was an original way of demonstrating Jonathan Anderson's deep dive into the house's history before presenting his SS26 collection.

Jonathan Anderson for Dior highlights miniskirts for spring/summer 2026

While the first look was a white dress inspired by the house's iconic New Look (like a blank canvas), the miniskirt was the key garment of the collection. There were canvas minis, frayed denim minis, and both fitted and looser styles. These were worn with a variety of tight-collared silk shirts that hugged the bust, long jackets, and long light capes. All looks were paired with court shoes.

Anderson's women's ready-to-wear collection featured several elements that were also found in the men's collection. For example, the long capes were the same but in different colours, and the high collars with bows were also available in different colours and materials but were still recognisable. Another striking feature was the return of the techniques used in the Delft Dress from 1948. In the men's collection, this was incorporated into Bermuda shorts, and in the women's collection into a short skirt.

Not to be forgotten is the number of new accessories that were presented. Various bags with a subtle Dior reference, for example in the handle, appeared on the catwalk. Anderson was not afraid to experiment with the bags, which could herald a new commercial success for Dior. Accessories are an entry point for new customers to join the brand.

Jonathan Anderson could not resist creating his own version of the New Look, a rite of passage for any designer joining Dior. His proposal was multifaceted, playing with volumes from short to long and featuring fully pleated dresses. The collection even extended to dresses with volumes reminiscent of crinolines, both from the front and the back.

Among the key materials, lace and its suggestive transparencies were prominent. The colour palette featured many light shades, such as sky blue and dove grey.

In fact, the description could be endless, as the collection is so diverse. It perfectly embodies what Anderson (source LVMH) calls “decoding the language of the house to recode it”. This debut effort captivated the audience, who gave a standing ovation.